ORB A Growing Populace (New Minis WIP)

Punktaku

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Zenithol doesn’t seem to do much as there isn’t any noticeable differences between models where I managed to do it and my old models which were one color primer.

black primer doesn’t seem to have the clogging issue that white primer does. Or maybe I just use more of it (like on terrain) so clogging has less opportunity to occur?
 
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McToast

Juve
Mar 7, 2021
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Despite owning a nice Tamiya airbrush, I never use it on miniatures, even for prime coating.

I have way much more control on the coating of every detail of the sculpt with an appropriate brush than with any kind of spray. As for motor oil, the secret is in the viscosity, not in the tool you use.

Good paint+thinner+water = not brush marks on my mini and the exact amount of coating where I want it and when I want it.

And I never do "zenithal" coating which is just a utter waste of time IMO. Magical thinking all the way for 99% of the people who use it (I reckon it could be effective for 1% of Golden Deamon level expert painters who know how to use it properly, associated with several other model lighting techniques).
You can't - or at least shouldn't - replace your normal brush with an airbrush. It's another tool in your box. I prime with an airbrush because it's easier and cheaper. I also use it to put down basecolours on large models with a distinct main colour, for example most recently my Ambots. Zenithal priming plus a properly thin basecoat already gives a bit of volume in the shades, adding one or two highlight layers using zenithal techniques adds more volume. A decent wash (I use homebrew with ink, water, flow improver and some medium) adds deeper shadows and definition. The whole process takes about 30-45 minutes on an ambot-sized miniature for the main colour, and the miniature at this point looks better than what most people put on the table - and it's very low effort basically everyone can do. But that's just where I start. With the shadows and mid-tone volumes already in place, it's easy and very fast to add more highlights and edgehighlights with a normal brush. I don't have much experience with an airbrush yet, but it's already improved my painting, and most of all, it saves time. Working only with a normal paintbrush can give better results, if you're REALLY good, but for me it's a case of the pareto principle.

Regarding the effectiveness of zenital priming or undercoating, I would agree that many people use it wrong or have the wrong conception of it. You don't have to be on Golden Demon level, but it doesn't do anything if you slop 2mm of paint on the mini. It does, however, give you an idea of the possible volumes/light on a miniature and that's something new painters often struggle with. It's also useful if you paint brighter colours you don't want to paint over black (yellow, red...), yet also don't want to have white spots you've missed in the armpits. A zenithal priming is a good compromise, giving you those bright surfaces, where your yellow or red only takes two thin coats for full coverage, yet still having those darker areas in the harder to reach spaces.

TL;DR: I recommend you should try to use an airbrush more often, especially if you have it already. Not to replace your normal brush, but to complement it.
 

Punktaku

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And the last one just needs to be based with their fellows. Then I’ll have a FYSC entry for September.
9A6C9490-4EB4-4DD9-BE89-287D61C51F71.jpeg
 

Pierric

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That's a heck of a shoulder weapon...:p

Thanks for your views, McToast. Airbrushing is a bit like blackpowder shooting. A lot of fun but the cleaning process is tedious. And I would argue about the "easier" aspect of it. If you reduce the practice to the painting aspect only, maybe, but if you take it as a whole, including the preparation, the compressor, the need for a well vented area and the final cleaning, I find it way more easy to manualy prime coat a few minis on any corner of a table. Takes only 5 minutes and 30 seconds to clean your brush.

To me, it is a tool for vehicles, monster sized minis and terrain, or for motorcycle tanks customization, but that's only my subjective point of view. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner with a tight budget, I would rather advise him to get some quality brushes, with natural hair, the proper size (1 and 2, no use for 000 and such) and save the airbrush money for nice models to paint.

But you're probably right by writing that I should use my airbrush more often.
 

McToast

Juve
Mar 7, 2021
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That's a heck of a shoulder weapon...:p

Thanks for your views, McToast. Airbrushing is a bit like blackpowder shooting. A lot of fun but the cleaning process is tedious. And I would argue about the "easier" aspect of it. If you reduce the practice to the painting aspect only, maybe, but if you take it as a whole, including the preparation, the compressor, the need for a well vented area and the final cleaning, I find it way more easy to manualy prime coat a few minis on any corner of a table. Takes only 5 minutes and 30 seconds to clean your brush.

To me, it is a tool for vehicles, monster sized minis and terrain, or for motorcycle tanks customization, but that's only my subjective point of view. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner with a tight budget, I would rather advise him to get some quality brushes, with natural hair, the proper size (1 and 2, no use for 000 and such) and save the airbrush money for nice models to paint.

But you're probably right by writing that I should use my airbrush more often.
I agree, I'd never recommend buying an airbrush to a beginner. Aside from priming, you need to have some basic understanding on how paint works, how to properly thin paint and how to apply shades and highlights on a miniature. And most of all, a beginner needs all the practice with a normal brush he can get. Because I also believe that the actual brush work is more important than airbrush skills. Also, while my first airbrush kit only cost like 50€ (~60$), a decent setup costs quite a bit of money and is not an investment a beginner should take.

All I wanted to say is that an airbrush can really speed up some steps. For a long time I refused to use any washes or an airbrush, considering them "cheating" and requiring no actual "skill". Now I'm at the point where I look at the result and the time spent. If an airbrush can do the same job better and faster, I'll use it. If it doesn't, I'll use my normal brush. I still use my DaVinci Harbin Kolinsky size 2 & 3 most of the time.
 
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Punktaku

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Finished the bases this morning. hey’re a bit subtle, but I also worked on a scenery piece too, so it should be clearer why i do the bases like that.







And this was part of a past YakComp.
35721145-4467-4BFB-8AB8-3B374E9CE60A.jpeg
 

cainex1

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I think the solution to many of these tool problems is resolved with ultra sonic cleaners. It has completely changed the game for cleaning anything for me.
 

Punktaku

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Finished up two more for the FYSC for September. A couple of old metal Warzone: Mutant Chronicles models. They’re Imperial Headhunters with lower arm and weapon swaps. They both originally had axes and severed heads.


 

cainex1

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Ya know.. these are really solid. I fee like if you just gave them a dip in one of the small pails of quickshade you can buy it would really make them look good. It's an old technique but it always seems to work.
 
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SuboptimusPrime

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Yak Comp 1st Place
Jan 19, 2019
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Sectoris XII | Castrum Vindobona | Austria
Well, then I can recommend shaders, aka inks, once again. The GW stuff is pretty good and half the reason I still buy GW paint (good thing I don't plan on having kids, or one would be named Nuln Oil) but P3 washes are supposedly good too.

As far as dips go, I've had mixed results with Army Painter strong tone depending on what I dip. I tried it on some NC17 scatter terrain and it was, well, underwhelming because there are a lot of open areas and not many recesses for the stuff to flow into. But a figure like this with lots of textures and nooks and crannies and whatnot should work fine.

If you do decide to give this sort of stuff a try, I would recommend diluting the tone 1:1 with water for a first try. Oh, and, don't panic if it comes out glossier than a late-90s Kate Moss photoshoot, that's normal, you have to use matte varnish after dipping.
 

cainex1

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Well, then I can recommend shaders, aka inks, once again. The GW stuff is pretty good and half the reason I still buy GW paint (good thing I don't plan on having kids, or one would be named Nuln Oil) but P3 washes are supposedly good too.

As far as dips go, I've had mixed results with Army Painter strong tone depending on what I dip. I tried it on some NC17 scatter terrain and it was, well, underwhelming because there are a lot of open areas and not many recesses for the stuff to flow into. But a figure like this with lots of textures and nooks and crannies and whatnot should work fine.

If you do decide to give this sort of stuff a try, I would recommend diluting the tone 1:1 with water for a first try. Oh, and, don't panic if it comes out glossier than a late-90s Kate Moss photoshoot, that's normal, you have to use matte varnish after dipping.
This sounds smart. a thinned wash or varnish might be a great way to do it.
 
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McToast

Juve
Mar 7, 2021
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I’m not a fan of the “dips.” A lot of the ones I’ve seen seem to have had the paint jobs obscured by the dip and look “messy”.
You could also try oil washes. It also looks a bit messy ("grimdark"), but you can remove any excess afterwards with a bit of white spirit. If you only use one basecolour without highlights I'd recommend a brighter basecolour than what you want to achieve, because the wash tones brightness down quite a bit.

 
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