If she’s going to be Nurgle and corroded, dirty, and all corrupted; it will probably help.
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- Thread starter CookieMountaineer
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Here's a few gangers to accompany that champion. The remnants of fallen house Ash'mina
Built to evoke a slight samurai vibe. Criticism welcome
Built to evoke a slight samurai vibe. Criticism welcome
If you want smooth green stuff without water, lube, or miscellaneous body grease, get yourself one of these:
https://www.jacksonsart.com/colour-shapers-silicone-tool-grey-firm-flat-chisel-size-0/
Honestly, it works like a charm!
I very rarely even touch my metal tools any more, unless fine sharp details are required. This one thing does 95% of the rest.
https://www.jacksonsart.com/colour-shapers-silicone-tool-grey-firm-flat-chisel-size-0/
Honestly, it works like a charm!
I very rarely even touch my metal tools any more, unless fine sharp details are required. This one thing does 95% of the rest.
These gangers look ace! Definitely a blanchitsu look to them. Can I ask where you've got the torsos/legs from?
In terms of critique/improvement, do the added armour plates on the first two gangers have any in-world viable support? The loin plates might have a belt behind them but at this angle, the first ganger's shin plate/greave looks like it's held on by art. Raggedy or crude straps also help to add extra textures, which to me is also a hallmark of blanchitsu style. A bit of greenstuff with perhaps a couple of nicks/notches along the edges will replicate worn leather or thick fabric relatively easily.
As for greenstuff tips, @undertaker is bang on with the colour shaper advice. Personally I went with the extra firm version (black tips) that are generally called clay shapers and a set of five 0-size for the different shapes - the cup chisel (see below) is the only one that doesn't see regular use.
Flat and cup round are great for smoothing, angle is good for sharp creases and narrow dents, while I find the taper ideal for doing smooth folds in cloaks and fabrics. If you just start with one however, flat is definitely the most versatile.
I still wet my shapers with water (or my tongue if I'm not thinking) while working freshly mixed greenstuff. A final smoothing pass once the greenstuff is almost too hard to work -round about an hour after mixing- is always a good move in my opinion, as ridges can be smoothed down without the putty moving very far and a silicon tool like a shaper won't stick at that stage either.
If you do find cracks/dimples/rough spots after the greenstuff is cured, milliput is a useful putty to have around. Water will dilute it into a paste that can be smeared into imperfections and it will take a sanding much better than greenstuff if you need to go that far. Just make certain that tools are cleaned off before the milliput cures, because it will bind to practically anything with the determination of a face-hugger!
I like the yellow-grey milliput for fixing jobs; not only is it the cheapest variety that I know of, but it's pale enough that if applied after priming it will still cover easily with a brush-on primer, rather than re-coating the whole model.
In terms of critique/improvement, do the added armour plates on the first two gangers have any in-world viable support? The loin plates might have a belt behind them but at this angle, the first ganger's shin plate/greave looks like it's held on by art. Raggedy or crude straps also help to add extra textures, which to me is also a hallmark of blanchitsu style. A bit of greenstuff with perhaps a couple of nicks/notches along the edges will replicate worn leather or thick fabric relatively easily.
As for greenstuff tips, @undertaker is bang on with the colour shaper advice. Personally I went with the extra firm version (black tips) that are generally called clay shapers and a set of five 0-size for the different shapes - the cup chisel (see below) is the only one that doesn't see regular use.
I still wet my shapers with water (or my tongue if I'm not thinking) while working freshly mixed greenstuff. A final smoothing pass once the greenstuff is almost too hard to work -round about an hour after mixing- is always a good move in my opinion, as ridges can be smoothed down without the putty moving very far and a silicon tool like a shaper won't stick at that stage either.
If you do find cracks/dimples/rough spots after the greenstuff is cured, milliput is a useful putty to have around. Water will dilute it into a paste that can be smeared into imperfections and it will take a sanding much better than greenstuff if you need to go that far. Just make certain that tools are cleaned off before the milliput cures, because it will bind to practically anything with the determination of a face-hugger!
I like the yellow-grey milliput for fixing jobs; not only is it the cheapest variety that I know of, but it's pale enough that if applied after priming it will still cover easily with a brush-on primer, rather than re-coating the whole model.
Thanks a lot for the advice! Very thorough and helpful.
All bodies and legs are from the Empire State Troops kit, body and legs one piece. There's no strap for the shin guard, I should probably add one.
All bodies and legs are from the Empire State Troops kit, body and legs one piece. There's no strap for the shin guard, I should probably add one.
I like 'em! Look forward to pulverize them all.
I also couldn't help but notice you don't share your terrain here?
I also couldn't help but notice you don't share your terrain here?
Pulverise, schmulverise
Is terrain something people would be interested in?
Is terrain something people would be interested in?
*the Captain starts eagerly nodding his head*
The only thing better for encouragement than seeing other people's terrain, is finding the terrain pixies have visited in the night and turned all your amassed junk into painted scenery.
So far they've not called here but I keep the faith. I have to conclude I need more junk to get their attention.
So far they've not called here but I keep the faith. I have to conclude I need more junk to get their attention.
I'd not thought of that.
I have had it all hidden away in the Cupboard of Doom for a good few years, to no avail. Perhaps the boxes were packed in too tightly. Last week my wife ceded her claim on the spare room so we now have a Cupboard of Crafts and a Room of Doom (containing the Shelves of Shame). I'm hoping the extra space combined with both rhyme and alliteration will entice them, otherwise I will be looking online for the largest pillows known to humanity.
I have had it all hidden away in the Cupboard of Doom for a good few years, to no avail. Perhaps the boxes were packed in too tightly. Last week my wife ceded her claim on the spare room so we now have a Cupboard of Crafts and a Room of Doom (containing the Shelves of Shame). I'm hoping the extra space combined with both rhyme and alliteration will entice them, otherwise I will be looking online for the largest pillows known to humanity.
I too use those. For terrain hiding of course.
Well, they certainly have um... potential. And if they'll attract pixies, then all the better.
Assuming those are life-size characters, I'm thinking I might need larger though, so the pixies can use the most parts per visit. Do you reckon they have any of these featuring Brienne of Tarth?
House of Blades is on its way to me so I have painted Escher. Escher, Escher, Escher.
Champions:
Gangers:
Juves:
Yes I did change the color scheme. After doing an entire Infinity army yellow I decided to try something new instead of more yellow
Champions:
Gangers:
Juves:
Yes I did change the color scheme. After doing an entire Infinity army yellow I decided to try something new instead of more yellow
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I was pointed here for the female Cawdor, they look great!
Since you probably have the Sisters Repentia bodies laying around, may I make a request? I'd like to see how the bodies scale to Escher and Cawdor bodies please.
Since you probably have the Sisters Repentia bodies laying around, may I make a request? I'd like to see how the bodies scale to Escher and Cawdor bodies please.
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