Building Mordheim - what do you use?

notprop

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We are soon to begin a Mordheim campaign at the Chelmsford bunker (anyone's welcome by the way) and there is a requirement to bring at least 4 pieces of terrain each to pad out the clubs existing WFB boards.

I'm dusting off some timber frame cottages and an Inn that I made some years ago from foamcore board and balsa wood but these are complete buildings without accessible internals - basically the buildings from White Dwarf about 20 years ago. Mordheim being a mostly Post Apoc Urban setting buildings should be in wreck and ruin and accessible which is where I'm struggling really.

So I'm basically after Yaks tips on what buildings you are using and/or directions to tips/guides/blogs that cover this topic.

Note; I don't want to go down the Dave Graffam Paper/Card route as although pretty I don't think that they will be robust enough for a club environment.
 

Tulkas

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I've just always used the ones that came with the box, although nowadays I'm considering making some buildings myself from Foamcore. I was thinking, I should be able to make take-apart buildings from FC and balsawood, using the balsawood to demark the floor levels and have it wide enough so that it falls over the walls of the floor underneath, so that the topfloor can't slide off. Does that make any sense? If not, I'll PAINT a picture. I'm also planning on making a bunch of 5mm MDF risers (general Bulkhead/ MH wall height) and glue a proper brick-wall motif wallpaper on. That way the first level of any (Mordheim) table would be taken care of. (And you could make alot of really cramped up alleyways).
 
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notprop

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Yeah that makes perfect sense and much along the lines that I was thinking. I was hoping that someone had done it before and worked out the details already and thus avoid the whole trial and error learning phase. :)

I was also thinking of using Hirst Arts blocks for the Ground Level as I have loads cast up but currently unused.
 

Tulkas

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That's a good way to start too I reckon. I don't cast myself, (other than the die) I think the foamcore with balsa border can also "cover up" the edges of the wall and floor meeting, making it look nice 'n smooth and you don't really see it's a take-apart until your clumsy buddy knocks one over. The thing I'm just still wondering is wether to glue the wood on (does it stick properly with PVA glue? I haven't tried yet) or use really small nails to tack them on. I'm now also having these strange thoughts about making the streets into little gulleys (ever so slight) so the runoff would collect in the centre.
 

notprop

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I use pins (just normal sewing ones nicked off my mum 20 yeats ago - sush!) on foamcore to foamcore joints while PVA sets. These are taken out when the glue cues.

Balsa will stick to foamcore board with just PVA with no problem, so cladding or framing will not be a problem.

However an overhanging cover piece to cover a split in level will have less contact with the underlying foamcore and may require some support to avoid coming off as the building is used? Perhaps a staple from the inside might do the trick and be hidden?

This is the sort of detail I was hoping someone would have figured out, but I think that I'll give it a go when I get home tonight.
 

spafe

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I'm having a go-slow moment, how would the basla marking out the flooring work?

If you have intact buildings then you can always use them for a empire in flames game, as they happen in the surrounding countryside
 

Tulkas

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I love Paint.

Balsa.png

The yellowish is the Balsa. It would be connected to the top grey part (which is connected), which is the top floor. Just a small overhang would allow to cover up the seams of all the connecting foamcore bits. All that is needed, is to get balsa wide enough to accomplish this overlap. The balsa would go all around the building in this fashion, with holes from falling meteors allowed ofcourse, it serves the function of keeping the top floor nicely alligned on the lower floor. It also allows you to turn the floor 90° or more to have a bit of variation (as opposed to when it was glued on solidly)
 
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spafe

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Ahhhh I see. That makes a lot of sense.

Depending on amount of balsa wood, would it not make sense to glue it to the lower wall all the way round, then the upper levels can jsut slot into the frame of the lower one? that way you can put the floor levels anywhere (assuming they have enough support from lower wall, and they can even be swapped between buildings. Wheras if the hanging wood is from the level above then it has to fit on exactly...
 

notprop

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Nice sketch @Tulkas, it's clearer than allot of the details Architects draw for me on construction projects! :D

While the above is obviously only indicative I would suggest that the Balsa section shown would possibly be too big i.e. it might look wrong aesthetically with a large chunk of wood mid frame? I would change it so that the floor met the wall rather than supported it, like this ]- (I can't draw by the way :)). This would allow a smaller section for the Balsa.

I'll test this tonight if I get time.
 
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Tulkas

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If you attach the balsa to the upper part, you can glue it to the floor AND the wall, therefor making it alot stronger AND covering the top end of the lower wall. Doing it the other way around (like you suggest) and still wanting the same would make you have to glue it on a little bit on the lower wall and hope for the best.
 
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spafe

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ah ha, I see you ahve done more research into this. Will be very interested to see how this comes out then :)
 

Tulkas

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@notprop I see what you mean (took a bit of looking but I got there) as I have no experience building stuff from foamcore yet, I will have to see in due time which way is the best way.

ah ha, I see you ahve done more research into this. Will be very interested to see how this comes out then :)
Actually I haven't, this just looks the sensible way to go.
 

notprop

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Since you fellers aren't too experienced at this sort of build (nor am I, I happily admit) you should take a look at the old Modelling Workshop articles from 90's White Dwarf.

Someone has helpfully scanned them onto Scribd;

http://www.scribd.com/doc/154120475/How-to-Make-Wargames-Terrain-Fantasy-Townhouse-Templates

The one I followed mostly is the Town House, but the Coaching Inn, Walls and Ruined Temple ones are all worth a gander too.

It's by following these and the templates that I got as far as I have. They were published well before Mordheim so lack the utility that we might desire.
 
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Tulkas

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Do post a picture of what you've made so far following this guide mate, much appreciated. Also that link: gold. I bookmarked it for later reference.
 

Tulkas

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Went into the DIY today and looked as some wallpaper. The one that stands out most was this. If only the "brick" motive was bigger (as demonstrated through the use of a crap squiggly line in the 2nd pic). I put Maggotbeard next to it for scale (the height of the wall is 5cm which is the height of Malifaux walls). If it'd been a "full brick" I would have bought a roll of the stuff. It only cost 10 euros anyway. I'll be going to a few more shops looking for the "right" kind of wallpaper. But I think it would make a great looking table, having this WP on the risers and the stuff I've showed before for the floors.
DSCN1782.JPG
DSCN1783.JPG
 
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notprop

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The brick pattern works well enough. Have you considered the sheets of textured material you can by from train and model shops. More expensive than wall paper but better scaled to the job.

So last night I gave the split level building a go and though that I would share lessons learned.

Basic building shape;
632281_sm-.jpg


I thought I'd show the pining I do while the glue cures;
632282_sm-.jpg


I had already started this building before starting this thread so did post construction floor cutting with a razor saw.
632283_sm-.jpg

632284_sm-.jpg

Lesson #1: If you going to do building with separate floors then its best to cut the foam board before you put it together. My post cut sample does not have the nice flat line you would get cutting with a blade/ruler on a mat. It made lining up the floors a bit more difficult.

I then created the overlapping Balsa band. I have mislaid my box of balsa wood so had to make do with an odd bit I found then split to approximately the right width. This looks okay compared the framed building in the second picture.
632285_sm-.jpg

Lesson #2: You need to ensure that whatever balsa you use here is either the same thickness to thicker than the wood you use to do framing or cladding. I usually cut strips from a pack of Balsa offcuts, this ensures that all bits you use are the same thickness.
632286_sm-.jpg


Just need to post form any doors and windows then work out how to do a removable roof.
 

notprop

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So a few more images.
The Work in Progress split build next to ones I made earlier;
632306_sm-.jpg

632303_sm-.jpg


My WiP Coaching Inn - now this really does need to be split level but I'll be dammed if I gonna cut this one up!
632301_sm-.jpg

@Tulkas - one for you. I have used card "blocks" to form the stone work on the ground level then coated it all with a grout/PVA/grey paint mix to form a Stone/rendered wall. Really simple and possibly usable in the use you were thinking of having wall paper?
632304_sm-.jpg

My village of the dammed as it stands at the moment;
632302_sm-.jpg
 

Tulkas

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That really looks awesome man! I was thinking yesterday, how sweet would it be to just make ONE very big building, you know, the size of 3 or 4 small ones. Your idea for cornerstones is definetely getting used, but I think it might be a chore to do an entire city like that :) I saw some photos on Facebook a while back of someone who'd made his entire "first floor" (basically the table was one massive riser) out of MDF he'd scored with a dremel tool to make itlook like brickwork. It looked the bizniz! The buildings were all on top of the risers, and his whole table was filled with cramped streets where you'd have to look up all the time in anticipation of getting a diving charge on your head.

I tried finding the images, but haven't managed yet. Will try again later cus they're worth the effort.
 
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spafe

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God damm, that is a properly awesome board! argh, soo much talent, why is nonoe of it possessed by me! okay, lots of planning will be done so when I get a proper man cave several boards will be made lol

Also great @notprop , they are very very nice buildings! I wouldnt be doing the cornerstones like that (far to time consuming for me!), but great idea. I think i'll be using textured wall paper for the lower segment of the building and then wooden props for the upper levels
 
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