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Necromunda Cardyfreak's Necromunda plog

cardyfreak

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Re: Necromunda saloon

Why thank you, sir. These look like cut glass decanters but there's loads of different styles. It was £1 for a bag of 100, the neck beads were pennies for hundreds and there's about 500 pins for 70p or so, bargain!
 

cardyfreak

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Re: Necromunda saloon

You can also get things that people use for making bracelets that look like picture frames, that's what the square thing is. The other stuff is the above mentioned materials.
 

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cardyfreak

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These are my templates for the first style of building. The bulkhead template is reversible for the two different styles, the ones that slot into the floors and the ones that attach with a tab.
a9ebygyp.jpg
 
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cardyfreak

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Here is the assembled building. It's a good idea to dry fit at most stages during the building of these. They are easy to modify to fit snugly, just be careful not to chop too much away or the floors won't fit snugly, they'll be too loose.
 

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cardyfreak

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Here we see the magnetic strip on the edges of the floors and some anchor points on the edges of the walkways. The walkways will have detachable walls that can also be attached to the edges of the building floors, blanking them off and making cover.
 

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cardyfreak

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Here's a complete building. The magnetic connection points are painted in yellow chevrons. The building is detailed with bits of sprue, pieces from the Platformer plastic terrain kit and plastic canvas, aka Granny Grate. This is available from knitting/sewing shops for about £1.50 for a sheet a bit bigger than A4. It comes in a few 'counts' which just means the amount o squares per inch. 7 count has larger squares than 10 count. You can also get 14 count, but this may have to be ordered in cos I don't think it gets used as much. Also, plasterers scrim tape is used in places. This stuff is handy for texturing walkways.
 

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cardyfreak

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A rusty walkway. The sides of this are fixed in place. It's painted black first, then dark brown (burnt umber I think), then I stippled (a stabbing motion with the paintbrush) on mournfang brown, then some troll slayer orange. The there's a light drybrush of leadbelcher. It's detailed with plastic canvas, plasticard, and card board.
 

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cardyfreak

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These are the floor details of the second building. The top one has an electrical wire jointer as some type of machinery. The cable is some wire 'line' sleeving. It's basically electric cable without the copper wire in it. I then slid some wire I had into it so I could coil the cable up. If you don't put something in it the sleeving will just 'throat', meaning it buckles in on itself. You can get this stuff cheap as owt, but the thinner diameter stuff will coil tighter. The loop I've made is about as tight as I could get it, I think it's 3mm diameter sleeving.

The panelled floor is made using plasticard and plastic canvas (Granny Grate) and rusted using the same technique as the bridge.
 

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cardyfreak

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Here's my Redemption priest being the Lord. He needs based still but he's the only model I had to hand for some posed shots. You get the idea though.
The grated section of wall behind him is removable, allowing the floors to be blanked off into two sections. The middle of every floor has a magnetic connection point allowing these to be attached. A low wall could be put in its place instead, or left blank.
 

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cardyfreak

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Here we can see the panelled floor close up. It's rusted with the same technique described above. We can also see the magnetic connection point in the centre of the floor. Be careful of you make a floor of this style to remember to leave room for the bulkheads to engage the floor unless it won't fit!
 

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cardyfreak

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Here are two walkways. They have little strips of magnetic tape on the underside to connect to the tape on the buildings. The rubble is made using plaster of Paris. I poured some into a takeaway rice carton and the shape that came out was great for large chunks of masonry.
 

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Jul 27, 2012
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Nice terrain! I particularly like the platform with the tiled roof, very run-down and ramshakle, as the Underhive should be!
 

chitching

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I remember you telling me about the Plaster Of Paras mix for rubble, but I don't think I had seen the walkways with it. Awesome stuff! And, for all you other Yaks, it really is as easy as Cardy says!
(so as not to hijack the thread with my images, here's a link to it, http://s22.postimg.org/mtwwhsjfk/WP_201 ... 05_1_1.jpg)

One my uni project is done, terrain will be being made for my gameboard. Some sexy blue foam to be styled with terrain in this fashion!

Great stuff and can't wait to see more of it!
 
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cardyfreak

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Wey aye man it makes ex rubble. Just hoy some into a takeaway carton and see what comes oot. I put a few drops of black food dye in to make the plaster grey. It's bari

ezy4u7uz.jpg

4ebede8e.jpg


And anyone can feel free to post their own pics up here, it's just I have a lot and am going to be posting loads of WIP shots up so thought it only fair to start my own so Kendachi can put more of his own excellent work without mine getting in the way.
 
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cardyfreak

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Barbed wire-
4y2asahe.jpg

Check this out for a great method of making barbed wire. If you're not already subscribed to Viv at rubbishinrubbishout on YouTube I recommend you do it now, he's been the main inspiration for all of my scenery and resin casting escapades. He's like yoda, and he's got tons of vids about a wide range of techniques, and if you have questions he responds really quickly (usually) if you leave a response.

Anyhow, I've been using his method with a cordless drill but I've been using this wire-
9upe2ydu.jpg


It's used to seal gas regulators and electrical meters, I can lay my hands on BIG reels of the stuff for free, but it seems quite expensive on eBay cos you usually have to buy the crimpers for sealing the wire to lead discs as a set. If you dig around you can probably find some by itself, but it's worth it because it makes great looking barbed wire! And if you're using magnets the wire sticks to it! Winner!
 
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