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It was hilarious, half my team got wapped by electrical discharge on the first turn, guys getting blasted left right and centre, grenades, flamers, leaping gaps, falling off shit, great stuff
Nice photography, beautiful miniatures and a specky board, kind of guarantees a great game. That board is amazing.
I was given a real Christmas treat from my Partner yesterday, a Bambi Lab A1. Just printed off my first test piece, a little boat for the boy. I’ve now got loads of Fabricators Lair and Saucerman Studio terrain to have some fun with. This thing is sooooo cool
3d printing is good fun and I hope you get a lot of awesome stuff out of it. Here is your next big project:
Made a start on a downtown/habzone district. Got a bar and the start of a hab block done so far.
Been fairly quiet as I’ve been having loads of fun with my 3d printer, printed loads of Saucerman Studios buildings and a load of Zone Mortalis stuff by Franky41517 on Cults 3d. I bought a bunch of sets by Fabricators Lair too and have just started printing a few things and I’ve got to say how impressed I am with these designs! They look almost identical to the GW building kits and I can’t wait to chuck some paint on these things. Have a look!
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They look incredible for FDM prints. That technology has really improved in recent years.
I’d kind of been holding off with fdm for a few reasons, one of which was I wasn’t a fan of the layer lines I’d see on online battle reports and whatnot but I’ve kept checking in hoping it would pass a point where it wasn’t an issue for my personal taste and it’s reached that now. Really close up it’s noticeable but from any reasonable gaming distance it’s barely perceptible.
The other reason was I done really have the time or energy to learn the technology particularly deeply, I just want something that works with as little input from me as possible, and again I’m happy to report it’s reached that point. I’ve been learning the intricacies as I go along without needing lots of knowledge to get going, it’s just been a lovely new skill set to develop without wasting lots of time and energy on stuff that doesn’t come out right. I’m a convert ha!
I was of the same opinion as you about FDM printing and the layer lines. These really do look very good though! What kind of FDM printer and filament did you use to print these? I'm not too keen to try resin printing both because of the chemicals and the process (particularly the rinsing & curing after the print), but I wouldn't mind giving FDM printing a try especially with results like you've had!
@Mr. M I’ve got a Bambu Lab A1 and this is printed in their own brand PLA. I’ve got some matte pla to try which apparently gives even less noticeable layer lines, and am using the standard layer heights but could tweak them to make the layers even smaller.
One thing to calibrate expectations of is that FDM printers don’t like overhangs, they like layering up in solid layers from the print plate so any overhangs, or ‘bridges’, can look a little iffy if viewed from below. Where the rest of the print gets layer heights of, say 0.18, a bridge gets its first layer printed at the width of the filament so it looks stringy when viewed from underneath. An example here would be the horizontal beams of the stained glass windows- they don’t have anything under them so the printer extrudes a thick piece of filament and cools it with the fan in the printer head as it moves across the space, creating a ‘bridge’ across the gap for subsequent layers to be built on. Here’s a picture of what I mean on a different print-
This shot is taken from below the piece, you can see the strings of filament bridging the gap and they do t look great. These ones are particularly egregious, not only because the section is quite thick so there are are a lot of strands to the bridge and because the settings needed tweaking, but I could have used supports to improve this but hadn’t figured that out at this point. This is an early piece from a different designer, the Fabricators Lair stuff doesn’t look anywhere near this bad as the sections are waaaaay thinner.
But it’s part of the trade off. FDM has limitations just like resin. I too didn’t go for resin as I can’t be chewed with the processing elements, even though I’ve enjoyed working with resin for casting with silicone moulds. I’d rather have little sections like this (which you’ll never see when it’s in use on the tabletop) than have a resin nightmare gassing me as I try to print houses for my toy soldiers to fight in.
One thing to calibrate expectations of is that FDM printers don’t like overhangs, they like layering up in solid layers from the print plate so any overhangs, or ‘bridges’, can look a little iffy if viewed from below. Where the rest of the print gets layer heights of, say 0.18, a bridge gets its first layer printed at the width of the filament so it looks stringy when viewed from underneath. An example here would be the horizontal beams of the stained glass windows- they don’t have anything under them so the printer extrudes a thick piece of filament and cools it with the fan in the printer head as it moves across the space, creating a ‘bridge’ across the gap for subsequent layers to be built on. Here’s a picture of what I mean on a different print-
This shot is taken from below the piece, you can see the strings of filament bridging the gap and they do t look great. These ones are particularly egregious, not only because the section is quite thick so there are are a lot of strands to the bridge and because the settings needed tweaking, but I could have used supports to improve this but hadn’t figured that out at this point. This is an early piece from a different designer, the Fabricators Lair stuff doesn’t look anywhere near this bad as the sections are waaaaay thinner.
But it’s part of the trade off. FDM has limitations just like resin. I too didn’t go for resin as I can’t be chewed with the processing elements, even though I’ve enjoyed working with resin for casting with silicone moulds. I’d rather have little sections like this (which you’ll never see when it’s in use on the tabletop) than have a resin nightmare gassing me as I try to print houses for my toy soldiers to fight in.
Those pictures are very interesting! Depending on what that piece is, those filament strings could be disguised as cables (although definitely less of a "happy accident" for a cathedral window)! Thanks for taking the time to explain some of the pitfalls.
That’s exactly what my thoughts were ha! I suspect you’d get along just fine with the old FDM printing vibe ha!
I’ve taken a few other shots-
Here is the underside of those beams
And a close up of some of the detail-
But this represents about 15 hours printing in total, all for the cost of about £6 at this point, but the whole thing will cost about £9 of filament (there’s two more levels and floors for the left hand tower) and another 6 hours of print time for all components to be complete-
And here are those components printing
Threw some paint on those printed pieces today, just the main colours really and still have the detailing to do. They blend in with the GW stuff pretty seamlessly really, very impressed with the quality of the design!
Here is a shot alongside the GW stuff-
I’ve been printing this monstrosity off over the last few days, got the ground floor complete and have the first quarter of the first floor on the printer. Looking forward to painting this one!
Here is a shot alongside the GW stuff-
I’ve been printing this monstrosity off over the last few days, got the ground floor complete and have the first quarter of the first floor on the printer. Looking forward to painting this one!
no I haven’t used anything like that. I’m too lazy for adding any more steps to what is absolutely necessary to print this shit in the first place, so it’s getting tabled no matter what haha!
Made some progress with the towers this evening-
And completed the second floor of this-
The roof is currently printing, it’s also four parts but these parts only take about 6 or 7 hours, the floor sections took between 11-12 hours apiece.
I’m having some fun looking through my book of abandoned buildings for some colour scheme inspiration, I think I’ve got some ideas formulating but pulling it off will be another thing ha!
Can see some fun haunted house zombie action in here, or using it as a precinct house or just a simple abandoned Administratum building.
And completed the second floor of this-
The roof is currently printing, it’s also four parts but these parts only take about 6 or 7 hours, the floor sections took between 11-12 hours apiece.
I’m having some fun looking through my book of abandoned buildings for some colour scheme inspiration, I think I’ve got some ideas formulating but pulling it off will be another thing ha!
Can see some fun haunted house zombie action in here, or using it as a precinct house or just a simple abandoned Administratum building.
Fair enough. I just wonder if one of those specific primers would be worth it... I really need to get my printer running.
This is a really cool project! I think the print lines look fine, it gives it character. Perhaps some parts of the hive had buildings printed out by the STC during the Dark Age of Technologie.
When I see big printing projects like this one I always wonder if spraying it with a light coat of aerosolized sanding sealer and gently scuffing it with red mirka pads would get rid of the print lines without losing detail. I use that method a lot at work to get surfaces super smooth before applying a finish. It works for oil or water based products, some of our paint is acrylic and we don't have adhesion issues. Might be worth thinking about if you want to get rid of the layer lines.
When I see big printing projects like this one I always wonder if spraying it with a light coat of aerosolized sanding sealer and gently scuffing it with red mirka pads would get rid of the print lines without losing detail. I use that method a lot at work to get surfaces super smooth before applying a finish. It works for oil or water based products, some of our paint is acrylic and we don't have adhesion issues. Might be worth thinking about if you want to get rid of the layer lines.
I thought you meant some kind of filler like for filling dents in cars that you scrape over the thing and sand, didn’t realise there was a spray. Just looked them up and they could be worth a shot so thanks for the tip! I’m fine with the layer lines as they are but I might give it a try on something… any brand recommendations?
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