You don’t just steal my hobby ideas, now you’re stealing my message replies as well!!
Necromunda Cardyfreak's Necromunda plog
- Thread starter cardyfreak
- Start date
-
- Tags
- gangs necromunda painting terrain
Yeah maybe it’s time to stop printing and do some painting…
Every comment I almost type could be replied to with "that's what's she said" 
That's going to look amazing at TribeMeet next weekend... 
Looks like a new and improved version of the infinity stair I made for a tribemeet. Much fun was had when the one legged? Underdog made it to the top or was the last one to get chucked off? I forget @Scavvierising
What a large erection!
I hope there’s a counter weight under that to stop it falling over. Two to be safe.
Lucky, the little juve that could.Ok by that point he was pretty advanced. However was gimpy legged.
Had thrown a yakman into the rising flood after their treacherous attack on Captain Orangebeard. Restoring order and threatening anybody else who thought about attacking another player as we attempted to escape.
Then took down a spyrer coming down the stairs possibly two even. Had then technically got past the last Spyrer and was about to escape to freedom.
The sole survivor of the flooding buuuuut then decided to turn around and charge back down after the Spyrer and got his butt handed to him
Started painting the towers and whatnot today, starting with a filler primer (thanks for the tip @cainex1) to smooth out the layer lines.
I’ve painted previous prints without a filler primer, partly because I hadn’t thought of it until Cainex1 suggested it, and also because it sounded like more work than I can usually be arsed with. But I’ve found it hard to use many of my weathering products due to the layer lines, things like oil and enamel washes and other wet weathering products track along the layer lines and the effect is poor. I’ve got loads of them and I want to use them, so I’m trying filler primers out to see if they help resolve the issues I’ve found. I’ll report back as I go!
I gave it a good few hours and primed it black, and got a bunch of the other prints primed and some basic colours thrown on here and there.
I’ve also got these bug pieces waiting to go for a black prime-
I’m going to set my airbrush up in the shed and have a good go at all this over the next few weeks. Should be able to blast merrily away in there without giving the precious 3d printer a coat of paint in the process, unlike in my hobby room. I don’t have a dedicated extraction solution so I’ll do it all in the shed where I don’t have to care as much. For the towers I’m going for an old fashioned blue colour scheme to harken back to the OG terrain. I’ve bought a bunch of AK markers and other stuff to speed up the detailing, and I foresee many a litre of oil wash being thrown over these in the not-too-distant future.
I’ve painted previous prints without a filler primer, partly because I hadn’t thought of it until Cainex1 suggested it, and also because it sounded like more work than I can usually be arsed with. But I’ve found it hard to use many of my weathering products due to the layer lines, things like oil and enamel washes and other wet weathering products track along the layer lines and the effect is poor. I’ve got loads of them and I want to use them, so I’m trying filler primers out to see if they help resolve the issues I’ve found. I’ll report back as I go!
I gave it a good few hours and primed it black, and got a bunch of the other prints primed and some basic colours thrown on here and there.
I’ve also got these bug pieces waiting to go for a black prime-
I’m going to set my airbrush up in the shed and have a good go at all this over the next few weeks. Should be able to blast merrily away in there without giving the precious 3d printer a coat of paint in the process, unlike in my hobby room. I don’t have a dedicated extraction solution so I’ll do it all in the shed where I don’t have to care as much. For the towers I’m going for an old fashioned blue colour scheme to harken back to the OG terrain. I’ve bought a bunch of AK markers and other stuff to speed up the detailing, and I foresee many a litre of oil wash being thrown over these in the not-too-distant future.
Interested to see the end results!
I’m hoping to start FDM printing terrain soon, so it would led be good to see what level of compromise is required. Don’t want to be printing everything in .2mm nozzle and having to wait 15 hours for a wall!
I’m hoping to start FDM printing terrain soon, so it would led be good to see what level of compromise is required. Don’t want to be printing everything in .2mm nozzle and having to wait 15 hours for a wall!
Yeah I know what you mean. I’ve reconciled the fact there will be some visible lines with a 0.4 nozzle (it’s 0.2mm layer height though) against the versatility and volume of terrain that would be at my disposal, and also I just whack paint on terrain anyway and use it to experiment with new techniques and what-have-you so being able to pump stuff out cheaply is very attractive.
I can tell by looking that the filler primer has worked a charm on many of the areas that had more visible layer lines. Especially on the surfaces that were printed vertically (where the layer lines are least noticeable anyway), it looks as smooth as an androids backside.
On the subject of ‘knocking things out cheaply’, I used about 6 tins of Hycote filler primer on this thing and the other bits and pieces that accompany it so it’s definitely an additional expense (I paid about £25 for the six cans), and I’ve used just over five rolls of filament at a cost of £12 each, so call it £60. The files themselves were £15, plus a couple of cans of black spray and we’re already talking £120 for the tower so far. I’m not trying to suggest 3d printing is a false economy, but the costs when doing something of this scale do start to mount.
I can tell by looking that the filler primer has worked a charm on many of the areas that had more visible layer lines. Especially on the surfaces that were printed vertically (where the layer lines are least noticeable anyway), it looks as smooth as an androids backside.
On the subject of ‘knocking things out cheaply’, I used about 6 tins of Hycote filler primer on this thing and the other bits and pieces that accompany it so it’s definitely an additional expense (I paid about £25 for the six cans), and I’ve used just over five rolls of filament at a cost of £12 each, so call it £60. The files themselves were £15, plus a couple of cans of black spray and we’re already talking £120 for the tower so far. I’m not trying to suggest 3d printing is a false economy, but the costs when doing something of this scale do start to mount.
spafe
Executive Officer in charge of Hats
Staff member
Necromunda Custodian
Yak Comp 2nd Place
Tribe Council
That's going to look amazing at the meet next week... right @cardyfreak ? RIGHT?!
Next week? It's in under four days @spafe. UNDER FOUR DAYS! Aaaaagh!
spafe
Executive Officer in charge of Hats
Staff member
Necromunda Custodian
Yak Comp 2nd Place
Tribe Council
hmm, I should probably pick a gang soon then huh
It will dull the edges to a degree but if you focus it on where the layer lines are more prominent it’ll fill those areas more. I’ve had a cursory look over it and it doesn’t look much different to before the prime apart from the deeper layer lines where the primer gathered more.
I wonder… as these are 3D prints from a file if it’s possible to essentially exaggerate the detail by making it deeper? Then the layer lines could be filled but the detail will still show through.
Doesn’t seem out of the realms of possibility to do but may depend on the design, stl and if that’s doable in cutter software or if you need to move it into Blender or the like.
I’m no expert but I think that may need to go to something like blender to do. Playing around with wall thickness in the slicer software might let you achieve something similar, but it might also only affect the strength of the walls in the file rather than alter the parameters. There’s lots of stuff to play around with though so it’s not outside the realms of possibility.
Had a little bit of time this morning to give myself a head start with some spray paints-
I’ll use some airbrush primer to catch all the bits I’ve missed and to put some shading onto the central columns.
Also did the base coating on this hab block, again it’ll get some shading with the airbrush.
My plan is to use the airbrush and some drybrushing techniques to do the bulk of the work, and then use the AK markers and paint pens I bought to do all the details. Then a gloss varnish, an all over oil wash, rub most of it off and that should do it.
Had a little bit of time this morning to give myself a head start with some spray paints-
I’ll use some airbrush primer to catch all the bits I’ve missed and to put some shading onto the central columns.
Also did the base coating on this hab block, again it’ll get some shading with the airbrush.
My plan is to use the airbrush and some drybrushing techniques to do the bulk of the work, and then use the AK markers and paint pens I bought to do all the details. Then a gloss varnish, an all over oil wash, rub most of it off and that should do it.
Similar threads
