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N17 Discharges of Grey Matter : Age of Strife to N17

GreyMatter

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How do you manage the seam? Mine always get very noticeable. Although I'm using ProCreate putty, which has worked fine for me, the seam gets a bit too thick when I cast small bits (like arms). The result is an arm that's 0.5-1mm wider than the original. It's not noticeable when casting big things, you can spot it on guns or arms if you have an original to compare to. Maybe I just pack a bit too much into the mould?
.
I also run into problems with the seam most of the time and in many cases just make another cast and try again. If you see the legs for the warrior, the second leg didnt quite line up so will need to be partially rebuilt with green stuff.

I find that if the mold is made with 2x pieces without an enclosure/brace for the mold the seams are a real problem.
Making the mold as a single one time use piece that you just cut the piece out when its finished is less problematic with seams, but adds tot the time involved

Edit:
@SirFrog upon second reading I see your point about the seam/scale difference that happens. The only time I've really noticed it is when trying to make copies of heads for models, when doing arms and such I usually just file down the parts a bit. For smaller bits like grenades/belt accessories I havent really noticed a problem

Truth be told I've never actually successfully molded a copy of a big gun, I tried a number of times with the Orlock Heavy stubber but gave up after a while. The warrior thorax copy was the largest piece I've successfully copied.

Once I've green stuffed the warrior heads I'll try to make some molds and take pics of the process for how Ive done it. But I'd certainly like some advice on how to do it better
 
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GreyMatter

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Progress on the nids:
. Basic foot structure done. Still need to add detail but now have all the models pinned to bases
zXdoKJ8.jpg


Head redesign layer 1
PXMSn0o.jpg


Layer 2
AgXCeLf.jpg

. Once the ventral/upper spines are added I should be pretty much done
. I am debating whether Or not to add more structure to the face or leave it for the next stage with each individual model

. This will be molded 4x times to form the base for each warrior and Lictor's head.
. At which point I will modify it to match the role of the individual model
.. Lictor will have a predator like expanding jaw with tentacles and "should" have a xenomorph 2nd mouth
.. Gunner warrior will have more armor and protected eye slots
.. Coms warrior will either have lots of eyes or something similar
.. Stabs (2 x pair Bone Swords) warrior not sure yet maybe a Knightly Crest?
 

ThreeDice

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May 27, 2014
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@Sethmerlin666 Yes, the newer warriors leave me cold compared to the relics, but are a fantastic base for all manner of conversions.

These are looking wonderful. I was thinking of sculpting some nids as practice and cobbling them together as a team, and this is really inspirational. Particularly like the work on the feet- hoofnids are a gripe of mine, too.
 

GreyMatter

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@Sethmerlin666 Yes, the newer warriors leave me cold compared to the relics, but are a fantastic base for all manner of conversions.

These are looking wonderful. I was thinking of sculpting some nids as practice and cobbling them together as a team, and this is really inspirational. Particularly like the work on the feet- hoofnids are a gripe of mine, too.
I thought the same that nids would be a good way to practice sculpting and smoothing different shapes with a fair margin for error.

As in drawing, the feet are tougher than I expected to get where I want them but still some ways to go yet.
 
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GreyMatter

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Molding method test
. If all works out well, I'll have 4x warrior heads. If not, then at least I have some cool bits for model bases
.1: Make Lego bracing
A46yjVv.jpg


.2: boil oyama molding putty until aldente
0ZdK5PD.jpg


3. Stuff part for molding in and push exterior areas of the mold into the part to make sure there is good coverage of the detail and no air bubbles
2lDfp43.jpg


4.a depending on the part making a full bracing of the upper areas might not be necessary. In that case then stuff more uncomfortablely hot putty on top to complete the mold
Hn8idR5.jpg


.4.b for comparison I also did the full bracing method on the second mold. Below is without the 2nd part
XC570Q4.jpg


. 5 when finished you should have a somewhat Lego shaped mold.
rT9Jrve.jpg


.6: after filling in the molds I want to try 2 different methods for holding the molds together. 1 with the Lego bracing, and another with tape wrapped tightly around the mold parts to hold them together and under pressure. Interested to see which turns out better.
TcIhUL6.jpg
 

GreyMatter

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Molds turned out ok, we'll enough for a base to convert from at least.
. Seems it doesn't make a blind bit of difference if using the brace or the tape wrapping method
ryi1b6p.jpg


. It does matter however if you mix up the facing of the 2nd mold part :|
MjgwYfd.jpg


. 4 workable heads for green stuffing and moving forward
uhGwCPl.jpg


Before really digging into posing and finishing the various head designs I wanted to test fit to see how it all works
i19HZ2I.jpg

. This one will be the coms warrior once done
DLRI9dO.jpg

7rVNQOe.jpg


. Not sure. Even after cutting the head down a fair but, I still think it's a tad too bit.
I think I'll scallop out the whole rear/underside of the head to create some space between the back and head. Probably also cut down the back of neck so the face sits more inside the shoulders
 

GreyMatter

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Space Bugs update
Finally feeling like progress with the nids now that they are getting assembled.
PUMcu6p.jpg


. Comms "officer"
Uk9VkyF.jpg

Ni3o3p1.jpg


. Zealot : aka: stabby
e8639iY.jpg

m4gyxPg.jpg


. Gunner
40sYski.jpg

. Blown away by how massive the venom cannon is. Weighs the same as the entire warrior figure.
. Need to do some serious green stuffing next round on the head, and build up some armor plates on the left side
tbaVrwT.jpg


. Lictor
KavnL3t.jpg

E7mbbFQ.jpg
 

ThreeDice

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May 27, 2014
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Really interesting work on the lictor, and how with the warrior base it will tie in with the others but not look too similar. Can't wait to see what you do with the mantis claws.
 

GreyMatter

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Really interesting work on the lictor, and how with the warrior base it will tie in with the others but not look too similar. Can't wait to see what you do with the mantis claws.
I thought the lictor used the same base as the warriors?

For the mantis claws I'm extending (the frak out of) the normal scything talons using plasticard like was done with the other limbs, but much more in this case. Got some work in last night but got sidtracked by other more interesting things.
 

ThreeDice

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I had in mind the older lictors I've been studying; must admit I'm not all that familiar with the newer ones. That sounds ace.
 

GreyMatter

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Now for something completely different:
. A while ago I jumped at the chance to grab the Viking themed CMON board game Blood Rage. And these minis have been sitting there staring at me since then.
. Oweing to the fact that we can't play a game until they are all painted I've been working away at them for the last few weeks to test out new painting techniques and do something different

. Bear clan : my favorite so far, first set where I really figured out how to use inks
71YeFQy.jpg


. Raven clan : 1st batch using mainly inks/washes, need to revisit these to highlight them.
. Really don't like how the Spears bend, but not much can be done as they use a pvc resin which makes them more rubbery and survivable during normal board game play
a3o30o0.jpg


. Wolf clan : first batch painted but just using my old speed painting method, as above need to be re-high lighted
OpaUcmP.jpg
 

Fritz

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Sep 5, 2016
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Did the dipping and drybrushing work well on these Minis? I have the Massive Darkness Hailbringer Pledge here waiting for paint, but I'm a bit skeptical if the paint keep holding on the minis due to the soft and bendy plastic. (guess it's the same material in Blood Rage as in Massive Darkness).
 

GreyMatter

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Time will tell on how well the paint holds. As they've only Sat on the shelf since completion I can't say at this stage.

I'm going to give them a couple coats of varnish to try and alleviate the worst of it, but I fully expect the paint on the spear shafts to flake off given how bendy they are. But for the larger figures and static sections should be OK.

But then again the ultimate test will be giving them to small children..........
 

GreyMatter

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Space Bugs update:
.gunner
6opPBvX.jpg

QZ2wnrm.jpg

. Had a blast figuring out how to do the buckler for the left arm. How would segmented armor grow on a giant space bug? Important questions
. Need to add more armor plates/grisle to the head and then this guy is done

. Sword Warrior/stabby
wNm4SZt.jpg

U7lK8gr.jpg

. Bit of reposing but basically done after some cleanup

. Lictor
zhY6ywj.jpg

ZZnSmJB.jpg

. Feet and posing done
. Slow progress on scything talons
. Noodling through how to approach the head/mouth. Plan on using the lash whips from the sprue for the feeding tentacles, debating if I can pull off some predator like dreadlocks