Dox's Hobby Log!

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
Hello Yaks!

(I'm firing this post off real quick, otherwise I'll never get it posted.)

I'm just deciding to get into mini painting (literally over the past week), and have been seduced by the sickly glow of the Underhive's affordable-but-detailed sculpts and general awesome thematics and gameplay. I've picked up some minis, and already have ideas churning away at my mind about future projects. Ambitious projects. Projects that, as of right now, I don't feel super confident undertaking.

But that's okay! Hobbying and learning to build and paint plastic friendos is a learning process for me, and I figure I'd be more motivated to do it if I could take you all along with me! So consider this a Hobby Log + Question Corner as I show off my progress, ask beginner questions, and try to grow as a painter and player. This community seems really cool (so does Necromunda! Long Live the Underhive!) and I'm excited to become a part of it.

Pics of Hobby Space and WIP models incoming soon!
 

ClockworkOrange

Executive Officer in charge of Pandemics & Trolls!
Staff member
Yak Comp 1st Place
Tribe Council
Dec 29, 2012
5,346
16,003
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Nottingham
Welcome!

I’m known as the Troll, I’m the nice one as are most here that said don’t trust the Clone or the Grey One. They’ll be along soon to defend themselves.....the filth.

If you want to check out my descent into madness when I started a journey similar to yourself, check the links in my signature.

Love

Clockwork
 

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
Welcome!

I’m known as the Troll, I’m the nice one as are most here that said don’t trust the Clone or the Grey One. They’ll be along soon to defend themselves.....the filth.

If you want to check out my descent into madness when I started a journey similar to yourself, check the links in my signature.

Love

Clockwork

Thanks for the warm welcome Clockwork! Figured I'd show off my work and hobby space, the setup of which I've been working slowly away at for the past two or so days, plus painting on the downside. I also figure I should chat a bit about why I'm painting at the moment, along with some WIP.

So, first thing's first: Here's my Hobby Space!
image0.jpg
image1.jpg

It was more organized before I built some cultists. Speaking off, here are those guys, currently in the process of being basecoated!

(Trying out an Imgur Album Link, let's see how this works. I'm far more used to Discord than I am to forum stuff, for I am but a wee twenty-something, afeared of such an arcane mode of communication.)

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/X51YSF3" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/X51YSF3">Cultist Basecoats In Progress!</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


Things I Want To/Know I gotta work on:

- Dry Brushing! My past attempts on reaper minis have ended in disaster! No idea how it works outside of the theory! Now that I have a lot more brushes, it's definitely something I want to try.

- Clipping Minis out of sprues! I've received a few tips on them (and TBQH, these GW mini's have surprisingly few mold lines) but getting the burrs off the plastic is still a struggle with me, and my cleanup isn't always as good as I want. Primer looks like it did the trick for some of these little cultists, though!

- Base Coating and Brush Control! Dunno if it comes across in the images, but my basecoats look (at least to my eye) pretty uneven, and I've seemingly been cursed by the god of shaky hands to leave little splotches of color on some bits, especially on the detail work! The fixing of which further unevens my basecoat. It's something to work on, for sure!

I also don't have a great deal of paints (3 Reaper sets that aren't very detailed, a few GW staples, and some Ink Washes from Vallejo and Army Painter) and this limits my palate somewhat.


Future Projects:

-Finish the Cultists!
-Drybrush my Reaper Minis and paint up the rest for more practice!
-Build the Blackstone Fortress Chaos Cultists Friends! (That sprue is so big oh sweet lord emperor)
-Orlocks! <These are the guys I gotta do some serious thinking for. I have a Big Idea for an overarching theme for all my Necromunda minis. (Something's been knocking about in my mind about a Freezing/Frozen Hive City, gangs battling it out amongst snowdrifts and icicle laden superstructure. But that's gonna require some more thinking before I even dip my toe in (How do I kitbash scarves and warm weather gear?! How do I KITBASH?) so that's a Future Future project.

Anyway, infodump over! I'm off on a quick outing, and then I'll be back later. Enjoy!
 

Punktaku

Un-Dis-Honored
Honored Tribesman
Apr 4, 2017
6,193
10,124
218
Connecticut, USA
Dry brushing requires as little paint as possible on the brush. I’m not a fan as I feel like I’m wasting paint, but sometimes it’s “necessary.”

I use hobby files to remove mold lines. I know GW tutorials say to use a sharp hobby blade, but it’s never worked for me. Hobby files come in cheap sets of like 6 or so with different shapes (round, flat, triangle, half-round, etc) which come in useful for other things like adding battle damage.

the photo share is only code atm, but your hobby space shows up fine (all those low shelves...). I’d suggest an album here on Yaktribe.

welcome aboard and happy gaming!
(I’m neither the clone nor the grey one, btw)
 

spafe

Executive Officer in charge of Hats
Staff member
Necromunda Custodian
Yak Comp 2nd Place
Tribe Council
Feb 8, 2013
10,129
13,718
283
Tilehurst, U.k.
Very nice start dude! welcome to the forum. General rule of thumb is everyone is fairly nice, ignore 90% of what clockwork says and if you have a tech issue summon malo.

Now onto the important stuff! great looking cultists! I think you will need a lighter base to use the contrast paints I think I spot on your painting table.
 

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
Blessed be the tech-priests, able to work wonders out of the ethereal machine spirits!

Very nice start dude! welcome to the forum. General rule of thumb is everyone is fairly nice, ignore 90% of what clockwork says and if you have a tech issue summon malo.

Now onto the important stuff! great looking cultists! I think you will need a lighter base to use the contrast paints I think I spot on your painting table.
Thanks! Basecoating is both very Zen and Frustrating for me, and I definetly agree I need some brighter colors, especially with the washes I might(?) plan to apply. My hobby store was out of Leadbelcher, so I went with Vallejo Gunmetal Grey instead.

I’m 90 percent sure I didn’t buy any contrast paints (at least, I hope I didn’t! I did accidentally buy airbrush paints, which might be what you’re seeing. I’ll double check when I’m on my way back to the table!)
 
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spafe

Executive Officer in charge of Hats
Staff member
Necromunda Custodian
Yak Comp 2nd Place
Tribe Council
Feb 8, 2013
10,129
13,718
283
Tilehurst, U.k.
Ah sorry, I thougt the blue and red bigger pots that were out on the photo were the contrast ones.

I honestly love the VJ gunmetal, its my favourite silver so far.
 

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
Hi friends! Got back from my outing (I dislike doctors and their needles immensely) and I’ve an update for you all! Cultists are now basecoated! I’d estimate it took me about 4 or so hours across last night and today. And I learned how to use Yak’s album function!


C&C welcome of course! Plan to give these guys a wash and see what the outcome is.
 

Chaos Moomin

Ganger
Jun 30, 2018
213
803
93
UK
Welcome to... the hobby.

You're off to a promising start, though there are a few areas on some of the lighter colours (mostly the flesh) that look like they could do with another coat (or just a touch up on the raised areas) here and there, as the primer is still showing through a little.

Dry Brushing! My past attempts on reaper minis have ended in disaster! No idea how it works outside of the theory! Now that I have a lot more brushes, it's definitely something I want to try.
What seems to be the problem with your past attempts?

I also don't have a great deal of paints (3 Reaper sets that aren't very detailed, a few GW staples, and some Ink Washes from Vallejo and Army Painter) and this limits my palate somewhat.
Don't be afraid to mix your paints together to create interesting new colours - pretty much all water-based acrylics will mix with each other just fine. Those dropper bottles your Vallejo and Army Painter paints come in are particularly good for this, because you can easily repeat a precise mixture of paint you come up with by measuring the ratios drop by drop.

Also, two pieces of advice I give every new painter: thin your paints (you seem to be doing okay on this front), and don't put your beverage next to your painting water.

I look forward to seeing your progress.
 

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
Welcome to... the hobby.

You're off to a promising start, though there are a few areas on some of the lighter colours (mostly the flesh) that look like they could do with another coat (or just a touch up on the raised areas) here and there, as the primer is still showing through a little.



What seems to be the problem with your past attempts?
My trouble with dry brushing is I'm a terrible judge of A) when my brush is actually dry, and B) How much paint I actually have on my brush. I either skew too much, or too little, and haven't quite gotten the perfect medium yet. I understand how it works (at least, in theory) but in the application, it's come off a bit heavier in places than expected, so I just wind up painting a layer of what's supposed to be a highlight color.

(Also, pretty sure the actual brushstroke techniques are lacking, but I'm not sure.)
 
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Chaos Moomin

Ganger
Jun 30, 2018
213
803
93
UK
It's pretty much impossible to have too little paint left on the brush when drybrushing. Keep drybrushing a tissue until it's leaving almost nothing behind, then start brushing your mini. Keep your strokes very light, and then just keep going until it gradually builds to the colour you want. Individual passes with the brush should appear to be doing basically nothing. The lighter your strokes, and the less paint on the brush, the smoother and less streaky the resulting paint job will be - though of course this will take a little longer too. You can afford to go a little wetter/heavier if you're brushing a very pronounced texture, like fur.

Also, apologies if you know this already and are already using one, but you can get dedicated drybrushes that have shorter bristles that are more suited to the technique. Or, you might consider getting a makeup brush; the soft bristles are great for giving a soft, streak-free finish on areas that are less heavily textured.
 

Ben_S

Hive Lord
Honored Tribesman
Jul 26, 2015
5,012
8,320
208
Southampton, UK
- Dry Brushing! My past attempts on reaper minis have ended in disaster! No idea how it works outside of the theory! Now that I have a lot more brushes, it's definitely something I want to try.
Apologies if I'm insulting your intelligence by telling you things you do know, but drybrushing works best on heavily textured surfaces, like fur or scales. The idea is that it catches the raised areas but not the recesses. I don't know whether that's (part of) the problem.

Also, I second this:

It's pretty much impossible to have too little paint left on the brush when drybrushing.
Err on the side of to dry, because you can always go over it again - much easier to add paint than to take it off.

Finally, GW do sell some special 'dry' paints, though I've never got on with them. Any paint can be used for drybrushing, it's just a case of wiping most of the paint off your brush.
 

Unslain

Gang Champion
Nov 29, 2014
255
491
78
Peterborough, Cambridgeshire, UK
For me when drybrushing, I feel the brush is ready when I rub across a paper tissue and get 10% coverage or less, and that colour pretty faint. Less than 5% will still transfer colour but it takes so many passes to build up something noticeable, that I tend to get bored.

In terms of techniques, I only really know two methods and there may well be more effective ones out there. I hope I've described them clearly.

1) Going across the raised texture (creases/folds in cloth being a good example on your cultists) transfers paint faster. You can kind of go back and forth with the brush this way but only if you don't want shadow on one side; brushing from left and right on folds that run vertically is fine (I think), but an up-and-down motion on horizontal folds risks putting paint on the underside that should be darker.

2) Pick a point for light to be hitting the model first (e.g. over a shoulder or from behind) and always brush starting from that point/direction. This way you're mimicking the rays of light and hitting only the one side of the raised surface(s). Brushing down from directly above isn't commonly advised, as natural light is rarely from high-noon.

In both cases, brush lightly at first because it's easier to add more highlight than to dull back down or start over. Try and keep to just the tip of the brush hitting the model too, so that you're applying a consistent amount of paint with each stroke.

Also, in case you use a wet palette already, don't put paint for drybrushing onto a wet palette - it just makes more work for yourself.


Apologies if all that is of no help. The only other thing I can think of would be for you to show us a video of how you're doing it now, and that's easier said than done. I've not used video tutorials, so can't recommend any but I can ask around among friends, and perhaps others here have some favourites they can point you to (and/or better methods to pass on).
 

ClockworkOrange

Executive Officer in charge of Pandemics & Trolls!
Staff member
Yak Comp 1st Place
Tribe Council
Dec 29, 2012
5,346
16,003
248
Nottingham
Couple of tips I’d give for dry brushing;

Have an old model you dont care about knocking around and after you’ve wiped off the excess with a tissue go at that model until you are getting the effect you want, then stop and continue on your actual model.

The Troll also uses the back of his hand in the same way, but he is Narled, Deformed and Wrinkly so I’ve got a fair bit of texture to go at unlike you young wippersanpper thingys.

The best advice for a beginner is try to be neat and paint each area with a base colour, then give it an all over wash in Nuln Oil. Once you’ve got to that point you can worry about highlights etc as you get better. Try Lukes APS on youtube he gives some great advice.
 

Doordox

Juve
Jul 24, 2020
10
37
28
All of these tips are fantastic, thanks, guys! Always good to hear how others do it, and all the tips are welcome! I've watched a ton of painting tutorials on how to do various bits and bobs, and I'm finding it's very different from the real thing. I'm away from my hobby-spot today, but I *did* finish the cultist basecoats (went back and touched up a few in a few spots.) Now I need to decide if I want to try dry-brushing again or move on to... The Wash!
 

Ben_S

Hive Lord
Honored Tribesman
Jul 26, 2015
5,012
8,320
208
Southampton, UK
The best advice for a beginner is try to be neat and paint each area with a base colour, then give it an all over wash in Nuln Oil. Once you’ve got to that point you can worry about highlights etc as you get better.
This is basically what I do but, for a lot of things, Nuln Oil is probably too dark/dirty. A lot of people say Agrax Earthshade, but I like Reikland Fleshshade myself.