Law's new projects
- Thread starter Trafalgar Law
- Start date
I've gone a bit mad with the 3D printing.
From left to right:
BA 64 with three turret options (lmg, hmg anti-tank rifle)
BA 10 heavy armoured car
T 60 light tank (a grave for two brothers)
T 50 light tank
T 20 Komsomolets prime movers X2
There's a slight print issue on the BA 64 (the 2nd attempt), it appears to have rippled in one location, but I think it will be ok with a bit of sanding. I had a similar but more noticeable problem on the 2nd attempt at the BA 10, so I printed a 3rd version.
Anyone with more 3d printing experience have any idea what could've caused that ripple on the rear stowage box? The T 60 also has a small, barely noticeable issue in roughly the same area of the print. The T 50 and Komsomolets seem to be fine print wise, although I think I should have scaled up the transports slightly as while they're the correct size with regard to the tanks they look too small in relation to the bolt action infantry who would struggle to fit on those seats.
From left to right:
BA 64 with three turret options (lmg, hmg anti-tank rifle)
BA 10 heavy armoured car
T 60 light tank (a grave for two brothers)
T 50 light tank
T 20 Komsomolets prime movers X2
There's a slight print issue on the BA 64 (the 2nd attempt), it appears to have rippled in one location, but I think it will be ok with a bit of sanding. I had a similar but more noticeable problem on the 2nd attempt at the BA 10, so I printed a 3rd version.
Anyone with more 3d printing experience have any idea what could've caused that ripple on the rear stowage box? The T 60 also has a small, barely noticeable issue in roughly the same area of the print. The T 50 and Komsomolets seem to be fine print wise, although I think I should have scaled up the transports slightly as while they're the correct size with regard to the tanks they look too small in relation to the bolt action infantry who would struggle to fit on those seats.
If it was once I'd suggest inadequate supports. If its happening in the same place on multiple prints its almost certainly FEP degradation. Time to change the FEP.
Probably the most tedious 3D printing related task. Mine has needed a new FEP for 3 months so is sitting inactive until I pluck up the courage.
@Tiny after cleaning out the printer and it's a resin tank I think I've isolated the problem there's an area of the thin plastic on the bottom of the tank that has distorted and rippled somehow. I've ordered a new tank which I think should fix the problem.
I've also been carrying on with my High elf project whilst waiting on the 3d prints. Another two Dragon Princes are nearing completion:
I've also started work on repainting my old 4th edition Prince Imrik and his dragon. The repair on the plastic Dragon seems to be holding this time so I've been working on it's rider too, so all is going well on the Ulthuan front.
I've also been carrying on with my High elf project whilst waiting on the 3d prints. Another two Dragon Princes are nearing completion:
I've also started work on repainting my old 4th edition Prince Imrik and his dragon. The repair on the plastic Dragon seems to be holding this time so I've been working on it's rider too, so all is going well on the Ulthuan front.
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The thin plastic is a FEP or PFA sheet (although most people just refer to it as a FEP). PFA is the "updated" tech and will last longer than FEP.
You can replace just the sheet and it only costs a few quid (5 sheets of PFA for my Mars 2 pro is £18 off Amazon), but takes a lot longer than just installing a new tank.
I can swap one in about 30 mins after some practice. Its simple enough and the allen keys to do it should come with the printer.
Having a spare vat is handy either way though. You have one to use while you swap out the FEP on the other one.
You can replace just the sheet and it only costs a few quid (5 sheets of PFA for my Mars 2 pro is £18 off Amazon), but takes a lot longer than just installing a new tank.
I can swap one in about 30 mins after some practice. Its simple enough and the allen keys to do it should come with the printer.
Having a spare vat is handy either way though. You have one to use while you swap out the FEP on the other one.
Ah I wasn't familiar with the terminology. My old form labs printer used a very different design to these newer ones.
Managed to locate the majority of my missing High Elves, they were of course in the absolute last place I looked. Found the IoB units, mage and Griffin the rest of my archers, 20 spears and an additional mage. I also found the mounted hero model although I have lost his left arm, I found it loose in the box they then lost it on the way home when I spilled the box they were into all the camping equipment stored in the porch
. I managed to find all the swordmasters and a couple of broken spears, but there is no sign of the arm. Hopefully it'll turn up when we next get the camping stuff out later in the year. I'll probably take the arm off the foot hero who I'm unlikely to use at the moment as there aren't any other left arms on the sprues. I could also use the spare left arm with a shield from the 2nd box of Dragon Princes.The only things I'm completely missing are my 4th edition Tyrion model, the metal command section for the spears and the mage for the plastic Dragon. I even found 19 of the shields for the spears.
The first regiment of Dragon Princes is almost complete:
However I am having problems with the banner.
I feel that I've kind of made a hash of it so far, as you can still see the original attempt at hand painting a dragon on it and brush marks. I also would like to say whoever designed this is a sadist as it has an inset pattern running around the whole thing, every other high elf banner released at the same time had a fully embossed design on it, but not this one. It might be salvageable if the decal design wasn't insanely expensive (£23 for one sheet, of which the only thing I'm going to use is the Dragon Prince ones, nah). So don't know whether to strip it and start again or design and print a paper one on my computer like I used to do for my Orcs.
However I am having problems with the banner.
I feel that I've kind of made a hash of it so far, as you can still see the original attempt at hand painting a dragon on it and brush marks. I also would like to say whoever designed this is a sadist as it has an inset pattern running around the whole thing, every other high elf banner released at the same time had a fully embossed design on it, but not this one. It might be salvageable if the decal design wasn't insanely expensive (£23 for one sheet, of which the only thing I'm going to use is the Dragon Prince ones, nah). So don't know whether to strip it and start again or design and print a paper one on my computer like I used to do for my Orcs.
That's an interesting idea. Does anyone remember if the old army books had designs you could photocopy and colour in? I'm sure some did.
There were definitely coloured ones (with permission to photocopy). I think at least some had B&W outlines, but not 100% sure of that.
ETA: I just checked and the 1994 Chaos army book (the one that came in a box set) certainly has B&W outline banners to colour in.
ETA: I just checked and the 1994 Chaos army book (the one that came in a box set) certainly has B&W outline banners to colour in.
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Painted the old Isle of Blood Griffin this week. Just got the base and maybe some final highlighting to finish tomorrow.
I'm pleased with how it's turned out so far. Although I did forget to mask the flight stand so it's going to have to be a neutral gray now.
Regarding the Dragon Prince banner, I have completely effed it up, I got it looking ok after many, many layers of paint, then attempted to draw a dragon on it using the suggestion of felt pens... It did not go well. So paper banners it is I think; there are ones in the 4th edition army book, but not for Dragon Princes as they weren't released yet, I'll need to find the relevant White Dwarf and see if one was included in the 'eavy metal pages or the catalogue at the back as was sometimes the case.
I'm pleased with how it's turned out so far. Although I did forget to mask the flight stand so it's going to have to be a neutral gray now.
Regarding the Dragon Prince banner, I have completely effed it up, I got it looking ok after many, many layers of paint, then attempted to draw a dragon on it using the suggestion of felt pens... It did not go well. So paper banners it is I think; there are ones in the 4th edition army book, but not for Dragon Princes as they weren't released yet, I'll need to find the relevant White Dwarf and see if one was included in the 'eavy metal pages or the catalogue at the back as was sometimes the case.
He looks great. One day I'll paint the one I converted for my Empire army about 14 years ago.
I tend to paint the flight stands black anyway. Never cared for the clear ones as they're usually full of bubbles.
Top tip I learned recently for free-handing banners: Keep persevering, refining shapes and adding shading and highlights. It'll look shit until it doesn't. Use thin paints and you can always paint back over it or strip it with some isopropanol if you don't like it.
I tend to paint the flight stands black anyway. Never cared for the clear ones as they're usually full of bubbles.
Top tip I learned recently for free-handing banners: Keep persevering, refining shapes and adding shading and highlights. It'll look shit until it doesn't. Use thin paints and you can always paint back over it or strip it with some isopropanol if you don't like it.
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And here we have a perfect example of why I much prefer metal models:
I don't know if the sword had been broken and repaired before as it wasn't straight (and another sword has clearly been repaired mid blade), but now it has broken off entirely and despite being reglued twice keeps breaking off again. I also had to fix the unfinished howling banshee exarch who had broken off at her ankle in the Eldar box. In contrast my 33 year old phoenix guard are still as good as ever.
I don't know if the sword had been broken and repaired before as it wasn't straight (and another sword has clearly been repaired mid blade), but now it has broken off entirely and despite being reglued twice keeps breaking off again. I also had to fix the unfinished howling banshee exarch who had broken off at her ankle in the Eldar box. In contrast my 33 year old phoenix guard are still as good as ever.
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You have almost certainly already tried this because you're an experienced guy, but if not it's worth a shot with plastic miniatures - put poly cement on both pieces, leave it ten seconds or so, then when putting the parts back together, swizzle them about a bit so the melted plastic of one half mingles with the melted plastic of the other half. It goes against the modellers instinct to purposefully melt stuff, but sometimes it's worth it.
Get it positioned properly, support if necessary, then leave it alone for several hours so it's definitely cured before you move it.
You will have a blob of melted gloop to trim off at the joint, but the joint will be welded pretty strongly.
I've done this on things as thin as a Bretonnian knight's lance or a skeleton's wrist and it's been ok.
(Plastic miniatures with long, thin parts are crap aren't they? But I guess a snapped plastic sword is easier to fix than a snapped metal one.)
Get it positioned properly, support if necessary, then leave it alone for several hours so it's definitely cured before you move it.
You will have a blob of melted gloop to trim off at the joint, but the joint will be welded pretty strongly.
I've done this on things as thin as a Bretonnian knight's lance or a skeleton's wrist and it's been ok.
(Plastic miniatures with long, thin parts are crap aren't they? But I guess a snapped plastic sword is easier to fix than a snapped metal one.)
That's what I've been trying, normally works, I fixed a couple of broken spears on the Seaguard and the spear elves that way. I just can't get this to hold.
Do you have a very small drill bit for your pin vice? For fixing this kind of thing I've got a 0.5mm bit and some 0.4mm wire. If you have a handy model shop nearby they should stock it, failing that buying online works too.
I'm guessing the sword is too narrow for standard pin vice bits or you'd have tried it already.
I'm guessing the sword is too narrow for standard pin vice bits or you'd have tried it already.
Regarding the Swordmaster champion, the repair seems to be holding this time. Leaving it for week appears to have worked.
So I've been taking a break from the High Elves and working on my Soviets instead:
The initial layers on the KV 1 are complete. Base coated Tamiya Olive Green then with Olive Drab and Khaki Drab dry brushing and a black ink wash to pick out the panel lines and rivets. Decals are on and now it needs varnishing, then spraying with hairspray and a white airbrush coat, which will then be partially removed with an old toothbrush for its winter camouflage.
If all goes well it should end up looking something like this:
Fingers crossed.
So I've been taking a break from the High Elves and working on my Soviets instead:
The initial layers on the KV 1 are complete. Base coated Tamiya Olive Green then with Olive Drab and Khaki Drab dry brushing and a black ink wash to pick out the panel lines and rivets. Decals are on and now it needs varnishing, then spraying with hairspray and a white airbrush coat, which will then be partially removed with an old toothbrush for its winter camouflage.
If all goes well it should end up looking something like this:
Fingers crossed.
More progress on the KV 1:
Winter camouflage is done. I've tried to make the wear look natural in areas that will get rubbed, handled, stepped on by tank riders etc. How does it look?
There's still all the details such as exhausts, machine guns and the wheels to do.
Winter camouflage is done. I've tried to make the wear look natural in areas that will get rubbed, handled, stepped on by tank riders etc. How does it look?
There's still all the details such as exhausts, machine guns and the wheels to do.
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