Necromunda Necro Resurrection - Terrain

Of course since this is one half of the packaging for the item in question, there is another twin brother. I think it will get squirreled away for a while until I have a proper bit of creative flair for it. Thinking a Tau outpost....maybe Gue've'sa influenced...
 
Well, I have had enough of board making for one day. Here's what it amounts to:
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Doesn't look like much stacked up like this, but here's what it looks like spread out...
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For scale, the two specks near the left-hand silo are a Van Saar Ganger & Juve surveying the new digs.

Strictly speaking, the TopoSolitario board (left side) isn't compatible with the more colorful (almost cartoonish) Platform Command kit. However, the TopoSolitario is a repeating pattern, so I can just take what is there, print another set, and put it side-by-side to get more space. However, I don't think I want to. This one is already about 28" x 40" and is plenty big for a Shootout or some of the scenarios that call for more cramped quarters.

The Platform Command tiles, however, are excellent. Since they don't have an interlocking design, they can be reconfigured any way you want. The ones pictured here are my triple thick tiles and will easily yield a board that is 35" x 42". Tomorrow, I am doing about 30 more tiles that are only single thick; that will give me another 35" x 42" with the flexibility to have a two-tiered game board (with about 3/4" difference between the levels) or two medium-sized game boards that play separate from each other.
 
Alright, the gaming tile project is now complete. I have completed:

1. One full set of the TopoSolitario game board tiles (16 separate tiles) which cover a 28" x 40" area--perfect for shootouts and more cramped scenarios.
2. 24 full size, triple thick Platform Command tiles (each 7" x 7")
3. 10 transition, triple thick Platform Command tiles. These are 7" x 5.5" and were created by wrapping the last 1.5" of a standard tile around the edge.
4. 30 full size single thick Platform command tiles (each 7" x 7")

In total, I have 3031 square inches of Platform Command tiles and 1120 square inches of TopoSolitario tiles. Plenty for at least two boards worth of mayhem and plenty of variability.

The tiles-on-cardboard instead of foam board experiment worked well, but there were some good tips I learned for those of you who might want to try it out.
1. Cut out all the tiles completely before doing any gluing. Don't try to save any time by simultaneously cutting paper glued to cardboard. IT DOESN'T WORK WELL. Any time you save not cutting the paper separately will be spent edging the finish cut tiles to get rid of white slivers on the edges.
2. The spray on glue is AWESOME. Use it liberally, let it dry completely before cutting, and everything will go well.
3. Glue stick, although not great for the main adhesive, is excellent for touching up an edge you snag with a dulling blade. Just take a healthy helping, smear it on the edge, and work the snagged paper the opposite direction you were cutting. Works well.
4. Brown corrugated cardboard shares a color palette with both the sets I used for play tiles, so that means as long as you get all the white off the tiles before you glue, you don't need a perfect cut on the cardboard. The brown just blends in to the tiles. The only exception is the slime channels. Those you need to either get just right or touch up green.
5. A rotary cutter is an excellent way to cut a large number of paper tiles out in a hurry. I always scoffed at this awkward tool my wife bought back when she was going through one of her scrapbooking phases. Now, I think I will steal it for myself. :cautious:
6. You know that recommendation to make sure you always use a very sharp blade when doing paper terrain? That goes double when cardboard is involved because the blades will dull faster and cuts snag more easily because the cardboard won't be perfectly level--especially near the edges.
7. Don't worry about imperfections in the cardboard. Several of the sheets I used had noticeable impressions from product or packaging. Make sure to put extra glue in these places and be careful to work the paper into the impression really well to get a good bond, but don't worry. The ones I have look great. In fact, they add character to the tiles since they make some of them imperfect--just like the Underhive.

So enough with game board tiles. Next up, some platforms & bulkheads. :)
 
Well, based on the possibility I will need a Yaktribe 15 entry quick, I shifted gears this morning to start on Precinct 13. You'll recall the packaging I showed you up above. Well, here is what it looks like after gluing in some cardboard to close it up and dry fitting an absolute wack-ton of 40K tank parts:

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There are 4 autolaunchers, 3 storm bolters in turrets, 2 remotely operated turret missile launchers, 2 heavy flamers pointed at the entrance, and a lascannon...for those really bad days at the office.

Next step is to build a firing platform for the lascannon gunner and then seal-paint the styrofoam with a PVA/Acrylic paint mixture.
 
Okay, so I've put a relatively thin coat of medium gray all over the black to tone it down and then streaked with a light gray.
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I was trying to go for a bleaching look. Since concrete isn't going to "sun bleach" in the underhive, I was going for something that streaks from the constant dripping of stuff from above--like a mild acid bleach over the decades.
 
Looking good, though there still seems to be some white polystyrene showing through. For something like this, I'd ordinarily recommend a spray as a quick and easy way to get good coverage but I'd be very wary of using it on polystyrene. (The spray dissolves the polystyrene.)

I recently had a bad experience myself, despite trying to take precautions (glue and painting on the polystyrene first).
 
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There is some white down in the turret wells that will be covered by turrets (shown on the left). I've got all the rest of the white covered. The glare off of some of the light gray looks white in the picture because of the angle, but I've got it all covered.

...but I'd be very wary of using it on polystyrene. (The spray dissolves the polystyrene.)

I recently had a bad experience myself, despite trying to take precautions (glue and painting on the polystyrene first).

Yeah, I feel your pain. I melted a nearly finished piece one time thinking the PVA had properly sealed everything. I was trying to get a light spray effect and ended up with a pile of melted rubble. Very disappointing.
 
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The concrete's looking really good. Are you going to put posters and graffiti on it when's it's done?
 
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The concrete's looking really good. Are you going to put posters and graffiti on it when's it's done?
Haven't got the full plan finalized yet. I am planning to adorn the outsides with some hatches and Imperial heraldry (a.k.a. more vehicle bitz), but i plan to keep graffiti to a minimum as the local precinct would probably remove any defacement rather quickly. Propaganda posters I haven't decided yet....I keep vacillating between cold functional Imperial bunker and center of propaganda for my final style.
 
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While I am mulling over the posters issue, I could use some feedback from the community. I am going to put a "13" on the side of the precinct house and decided on trying a drybrush stencil to give the uneven spray-on effect without the worry of melting my styrofoam structure. Here's how the test turned out:
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What do you think?
 
I like it. I like the top left hand corner where it looks faded. Perhaps do it with a very dry, drybrush so little paint goes on, and it looks faded and age worn?
 
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I like it. I like the top left hand corner where it looks faded. Perhaps do it with a very dry, drybrush so little paint goes on, and it looks faded and age worn?
The wetter drybrush is the right side, with the driest parts (right before the brush dried out completely) is on the top left.

I'm not too keen on the font, the 1 looks good but the 3 is a little odd

Also i'm the opposite to @Azzabat i prefer the thicker/fresher looking top right, i guess it's down to preference :D

The 3 didn't turn out well because I let the fiddly piece that defines the bottom of it flip up just a bit as I brushed on the paint. It made the 3 less crisp near the bottom making the bottom arm look sloped instead of flat the way it is supposed to. Lesson learned on that part, but is there anything else about the font on the 3 that looks wrong/could be improved?