awesome!So when the Sector Imperialis Realm-Of-Battle board came out years ago, I always thought 'those textures are nice, but some of them would make nicer walls than floors'. Thing was out of my price range at the time. But with it apparently being discontinued and me now having space and a bit more money, I got a pair of the tiles... to chop up... *muahahaha*
Started with a hacksaw and spending a good hour getting one section of texture out... but amazingly I found I could run this through the table saw as the plastic was thick enough it didn't shatter or melt!
I always wanted to build a highly detailed Necromunda board, featuring a sump sewer, replete with with trader barges/spider hunter boats, multiple levels, tunnels connecting parts of the boards, bridges to add height, and inside/outside spaces I could pack with detail (and LED lighting). I'd previously built a sectional board with poured resin sump-canals, with limited success, but now I have a space I can keep a static board (garage) Im going to go for it and build 'the greatest board of all time'.
My desire for more height means I'm going for a 3x3, as otherwise that verticality wont really get used. It will have a sewer running through the centre, which opens out into the middle. Not gona lie, my inspiration for a sewer-side-shanty-town sector definitely comes from Futuramas sewer-based mutant-town
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As the sewer-canal pipe needs to be big enough to reach your hand inside, it will need to be 3 levels high (4th level will go over it). Ill be using a 1ft-ish diameter half pipe of thick card. 4 floors Sounds a bit much, but as the sewer-canal is going to be a floor lower than every other section, its best to think of it as a 3 level playing area, with a dicing-line of -1 sub level running through it (crossable via barges and gangplanks). Barges and boats are WIP
Bridges which will criss-cross the board - I had these lasercut in two lengths to mimic the design of the GW balcony supports. Although Warlayer does a nice 40k gothic bridge, I *really* dislike print lines on big 3d prints, and found the only way to remove them is endless filling and sanding - effectively impossible on detailed things covered in rivets. I'll just be adding loads of rivets to these by hand. I'll be riveting them at the same time as I do the barges.
As I bought only a pair of the sector Realm-Of-Battle tiles to sacrilegiously cut up, I figured I'd mould the parts I'd use multiples of. Hey its for my own use so I figure Im in the clear!
The 'body' of the board and the walls I'll run the LED wiring within will be MDF, with every floor and wall will be clad in resin-cast texture. Here you can see my method - basically seal around the chopped up bits with plasticine. Paint a layer on by hand using the cheapest disposable brush to avoid air bubbles. Then pour the remainder. Don't worry - I'm not destroying precious Lego for my mould walls. Its carboot-sale Megabloks which I paid nothing for
Now this wasn't nearly as successful as it looks. Although Ill use this cast, with lots of sanding and filling, it destroyed the mould coming out. It also used so much resin that I may as well have went on eBay and just bought one of this part. Live and learn! At least churning out lots of pipe will be manageable when I get my Hirst Arts moulds back off my friend I loaned them to!
Next step - I plan to cut out my 3x3 board from 18mm MDF, baton the bottom of it for rigidity (leaving holes for running wire) and start making a mockup of where the main levels and walls will go.
Also cry for advice here here: as the floor-tile moulds are coming out all different heights, and I want to level them off - has anyone used a planer thicknesser on small resin pieces? Its either that or sand them using a power sander (using double sided foam tape to tack them down to a board before I either plane or sand). I own a dust collector and a proper filter-mask for resin dust-so no worries there.