Necromunda relearning to paint

Hobo86

Gang Hero
Nov 21, 2024
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Belgium
I'm slowly relearning myself to paint* and I had a few questions (last sentences):
* making all the noobmistakes all over again and trying to include zenithal highlights, contrast paints, etc... in my previously less technical previous workflow

('Lessons learned' so far)

Cleaning miniatures:
-let them soak in isopropyl / cleaning alcohol and scrub with a used tootbrush, repeat 2-3 times
-avoid doing this with green stuffed details

Drilling barrels:
-make a dot with a knife, drill barrels, plastic glue to smoothen the edges

Zenithal:
-keep paintgun distant, build up thin layers - keep gun at consistent distance
-use inks or (thinned paints) to avoid grainy textures, let dry between layers
-check 'after models are fully dried' if the paint coverage is sufficient
-check paintgun reservoir frequently: empty = splattering
-be carefull to be consistent & don’t flood the shadows
-pick 'extreme' directional light or not?
-use drybrush, equally directional (top-down?)

-for dark armor: black/grey/praxis white
-for skintones: leather brown/bleached bone/praxis white

Contrast paints:
-premix colors & thinner (‘enforcer blue’) for consistency
-it’s a wash dummy… not a paint... start with enough 'liquid'
-gives nice results for skin, leather and cloth, not too sure about 'uniform' armor.


Modifications (to implement):
-Boosted Zenithal: white undercoat for the yellow parts, grayer undercoat for armored parts
-remix 'blue' to have an exact formula and make a big batch:
cloth 35% black legion / 35 % black templar / 30% lahmian medium ?
'blue' armor: 35% black templar / 35% ultramarine blue / 30 % lahmian medium ?

Still to be tried:
Highlights, filters, effect light (eyes, plasma...), Steel & Bronze metallics, decals, weathering, leather recipes






Questions:

Are there any easy ways to clean little details that got painted with a wrong contrast paint?
Would pre-varnishing help to 'clean' stray brushes of contrast paints or inks afterwards?
would I need to re-drybrush my zenithal undercoat?

Are there any tips to get to get these effects with contrast paints:
-Thin transparant layers (+50% lahmian medium, airbrush thinner?)
-Are there any practical ways to combine a brown and black based Zenithal undercoats, Masking?
-Are there any tips to use contrast paints (sufficient liquid but avoid flooding unintended details)

Any other pitfalls/advices?
 
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This channel is good


Ninjon and MS paints are also useful. There are a number of great resources on YouTube
 
I'm looking at it right now, the hot water tip does seems more practical then cleaning with airbrush cleaner
 
I'm looking at it right now, the hot water tip does seems more practical then cleaning with airbrush cleaner
Absolutely, I always have a flask of boiled water when I airbrush. A quick flush through makes long basecoating runs easy.

I also gave a few gaahleri airbrushes and they are excellent. I also have a H&S with a smaller needle for fine work
 
(before I only used spray cans/brushes)

i have an iawata compressor (1 connection) with an hp-cs I was able to buy a bit cheaper 10 years ago.
currently I'm trying to figure out how I can combine airbrushing/zenithals with contrast paints for Necromunda enforcer models.
I'm going through a learning process with loads of 'happy accidents' atm... not sure how to combine everything 100%
 
Depending on the colour, I do a zenithal low light of purple, followed by highlights of silver or white. Contrast paints are OK, but depending on what you want vallejo air or inks work better.
 
i er... tested with army painter air and a few alcad primer bottles

I'm trying to approximate the color profile (illustrations) of the Necromunda palanite enforcers:

the general look is dark/grimdark, so a black/white/gray zenithal seems to approximate this*.
the small contrasting details (eyes, shoulder lamps) would require a bit of pencilwork (bright white undercoat + thinned contrast)
the black undercoat doesn't really help with the yellow parts... maybe I should mask the other parts and 'overdrybrush' those parts and use a slightly brighter yellow?.

for skintones a brown/bone undercoat seems to fit better, but it would need a darker brown to be able to combine it with the armor pieces

* i do think I'll need a generally brighter zenithal,

I have a concept for a genestealer cult where purple could factor in more, but first this project...
 
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that could work, I'm doubting between;
-using layer paints for the armored pieces (largely negating the zenith highlight - in wich case I would likely follow your last suggestion)
-rebalance my zenithal approach with liquid masking to end up with a mainly white undertone for the yellow and mainly grey undertone for the bluegrey armour (this would still require layer paint for 'corrections' to take care of 'oopsies')
 
I watched the video, there are a few usefull techniques (like spraying inks/washes), and I'm going to watch the rest later.

my first tests where a bit flawed (and have been corrected), 1 attempt I forgot the primer, for the second attempt I sprayed paint from way too close (and too thick) and the current ones should have had a brighter undercoat. I'll likely use liquid mask for the next attempt, it should help at this stage.
 
Using the below method, or stippling with a drybush will help your yellows. I've been using it on yellows and oranges more recently and it works well

 
I think I need to test/see how different color combinations work out on different undercoats for the paint scheme I'm envisioning.
brown/off-white & pink undercoats really warm up yellows, but most other parts are colder blue/blacks and I willl need to temper it a bit.

my previous test didn't work out that well because my zenithal was too dark and I may need a much brighter bluegrey (space wolf grey)
I may also need to work with a finer airbrush and masking fluid.

PS: I found a local store where I could find the titanium white ink btw.
PPS: I found this painting channel to be fairly 'good'
- https://www.youtube.com/@BrushstrokePaintingGuides/videos
- https://www.youtube.com/@Lets_Get_Gaming
 
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Would it be worth the effort to buy a second airbrush (0.2mm) to do detail work? I currently have a 0.35mm.
specifically I'm talking about the yellow / bluegray armor details with contrast paints on enforcer miniatures?

I'd likely also need to use masking fluid?
 
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I would get a 0.5 for base coating. If you take the first ring off the nose of the airbrush you get a finer line, just be aware that your tip is vulnerable and take care of it. I use masking fluid and tape.
 
thanks, I'll test removing the first ring soon (I'm cleaning my test batch again)
i have some masking fluid (and bluetac) lying around
 
I got a tip at a D&D event to practice on a few plastic spoons (I did) and that helped for a consistent pressure/finish.
I also sprayed without the front cap but that quickly led to a small area with too much paint. Masking will likely help to 'protect the yellows'.

next attempt this week... testing grey/white ink in my zenithal airbrushes.

did my theoretical homework on oil washes (magenta for yellow), varnishe, colour theory,OSL inks, etc... in the meanwhile.

main problem atm.... getting the right transparent grey/oil wash on the right grey-ish undercoat, get the right shadows, ...