Shriken is printing 3D mordheim-terrain, 40k stuff and more (REPORT with lots of pics)

Kommissar Shriken

Gang Hero
Yak Comp 1st Place
Nov 21, 2016
1,110
5,019
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Regensburg
Hello Yakkers!

in this thread i want you to show my experience and prints with my new 3D printer. Santa Claus brought a fantastic maschine and since christmas it works about 24h daily :) .

Printer:
The printer is a Anycubic 4 max pro printer. without any upgrades. directly out of the box.
i wanted a printer with a case, so my son could not put his little fingers in it... and also, i did not have to assemble any parts: ready for print directly out of the box!
In the printerbox also came a sd card with some testfiles and a programm to configure the files before printing (quality, speed, temperature and more).

its a PLA printer, so theres a thin plasticfilament that gets melted and added to the warmed plate -layer by layer... PLA is perfect for making cheap/big things like terrain and buildings, but is not very usefull for miniatures, because with this technic you cant print fine details...

11-DSC-1813.png



The software is called "cura". it was an very old version, but after installing you can update to the newest version. first i was overwhelmed with all the things you "can" configure in the programm.... but i dont have to do much of the settings, because normaly you simply load/import a finish profile from your 3d printer brand and than there are just a view details you have to configure befor you print. important are at first the support-lines (the programm adds them automatically, but you can chose how much of them you need) and the adhession -lines (simply said a thin base, so the peace you print could not slip away while printing)
08-DSC-1817.png

09-DSC-1814.png


that thin base are the adhesion lines. it was my first test-print and i added not enough of them, so my print was a little bit damaged.
10-DSC-1815.png


WHERE to get files? I just say https://www.thingiverse.com/ ... jeah of course there are a hundrets of sides where you can get files for free or a view pounds, but thingiverse has sooo much files in great quality for free.

so here some examples (most terrain peace for mordheim)


02-DSC-1842.jpg


01-DSC-1843.jpg


...look at that fantastic house...... i love it!

05-DSC-1836.png


06-DSC-1837.png

06-DSC-1861.png



07-DSC-1816.png
 

Punktaku

Un-Dis-Honored
Honored Tribesman
Apr 4, 2017
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Connecticut, USA
So that grainy texture in the last photo, is that the print lines from each pass of the filament? Can those be filed smooth? Is there ever an issue with them separating with the new printers?
The detail looks pretty good, but you say it’s not refined enough for minis? Could it be used for something like armatures or body blanks? Then you could GS details on or “dress” them with bits or other parts.
 
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Kommissar Shriken

Gang Hero
Yak Comp 1st Place
Nov 21, 2016
1,110
5,019
143
Regensburg
is that the print lines from each pass of the filament
yes it is. i made this print with 0,01mm high lines, so this lines are very smooth. when you use a spray-primer, i think you need to make some more colour layers to fil most of the lines.... for sure the quality with a FDM will never be like a resin-printer (SLA).... the FDM is just made for big sizes and "easy" forms... with those complex forms like a face, wires, buttons and more, the FDM makes very "shaky"lines.

for example: here's a centurion-torso.... very ugly...
03-DSC-1840.jpg

04-DSC-1841.jpg
 

cainex1

Gang Hero
Dec 8, 2017
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USA
Hrm... mine will only go to .04.
And are you sure thats on .01 or .1?
Anyway, I'll be watching this thread because I need to figure some things out so I can use this thing once I get it assembled.
 

Kommissar Shriken

Gang Hero
Yak Comp 1st Place
Nov 21, 2016
1,110
5,019
143
Regensburg
And are you sure thats on .01 or .1?
you are right: with the 0.4 nozzle i can print max to 0.1. for thinner layers i had to change the nozzle.

Here the complete spezifications:
Technical Specifications● Printing Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling)● Layer Resolution: 0.05-0.3 mm● Positioning Accuracy: X/Y 0.0125mm Z 0.002mm● Supported Print Materials: PLA, TPU,ABS, HIPS, Wood● Print Speed: 20~80mm/s (suggested 50mm/s)● Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm/1.75 mm● Build Size:270mm(L)×205(W)×205mm(H)● Operational Extruder Temperature: Max 260ºC● Operational Print Bed Temperature: Max 110ºC● Extruder Quantity: Single● Input Formats: .STL, .OBJ, .DAE, .AMF● Ambient Operating Temperature: 8ºC - 40ºC● Connectivity SD Card, USB Port (expert users only)● Package Weight: 18.5kg
 

Bilbostomper

Laser Monkey
Honored Tribesman
Nov 30, 2017
468
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Porsgrunn, Norway
Congratulations! :D

I hear there's a technique you can do with a gas of some sort that smoothes out the print lines. Haven't looked into it much myself, but it could be worth checking out. What's the largest volume you can print?
 
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cainex1

Gang Hero
Dec 8, 2017
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Congratulations! :D

I hear there's a technique you can do with a gas of some sort that smoothes out the print lines. Haven't looked into it much myself, but it could be worth checking out. What's the largest volume you can print?
Mine will handle 200x300x300mm
Cross-posting the link to this into the thread of
I will be making use of this! I might have to post some of my own that I've been curating.
 
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undertaker

Gang Hero
Honored Tribesman
Oct 21, 2016
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Congratulations! :D

I hear there's a technique you can do with a gas of some sort that smoothes out the print lines. Haven't looked into it much myself, but it could be worth checking out. What's the largest volume you can print?
The technique for smoothing the prints uses acetone vapour to dissolve the surface. You lose some of the detail in the process, but for some things, like your stone house for example, it wouldn't matter so much.

 

cainex1

Gang Hero
Dec 8, 2017
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Wow, that's huge. The ones we have at work are 100x100x100 (but then we have 15, so it kind of makes up for it...).
I got a double whammy good deal, backed a kickstarter for a good but inexpensive printer and then they had to clear out their warehouse. They gave backers the option of putting their money towards their high end printer and had it on a black Friday deal... so I jumped! I got a £800 printer for just shy of 300
 

Halbling

Gang Champion
Dec 28, 2015
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Impressive stuff Kommissar! The buildings are looking really really good. How much time did you need with the printer and the software before going „productive“? And where do you source your material?
Is there any smell or health risk while printing? I’ve seen some on industrial level and they are very careful regarding these issues.

I thought about buying a printer as well but I don’t have enough space, but these results look very promising and one day I will get one myself.
 

Kommissar Shriken

Gang Hero
Yak Comp 1st Place
Nov 21, 2016
1,110
5,019
143
Regensburg
The technique for smoothing the prints uses acetone vapour to dissolve the surface.
i read that the aceton works only with ABS plastic. PLA does not dissolve...

i actually use PLA because i often print more than 24 hours and PLA only needs a 60°C heated table, while ABS need more than 100°C... for me its a little bit to risky to let the printer unobserved allone at home...

Impressive stuff Kommissar! The buildings are looking really really good. How much time did you need with the printer and the software before going „productive“? And where do you source your material?
Is there any smell or health risk while printing? I’ve seen some on industrial level and they are very careful regarding these issues.

I thought about buying a printer as well but I don’t have enough space, but these results look very promising and one day I will get one myself.
most of my files are from thingiverse.com.
after some weeks of experience, i found it really easy... i need about 5 minutes to prepare the files from thingiverse for the print.
it smells a little bit like melted plastic, but its not really disturbing... i play computer/paint/watch tv often while printing things....

when you buy a printer. buy a "finished" version with case. this "make it yourself" kits need a lot of more time to calibrate them... after 1 hour reading and looking 30 minutes youtube reports. i started my first print about after 2 hours, when i opened the paked on christmas...

the closed case is better, because the heat and a constant temperature remains in the cube. this is better for the "warping"...


and thats the update of my weekend. my printer had a lot of work to do.

at first: heres the result from the "impulse rhinoceros" from thingiverse... i think its a really good result.
DSC-1913.png
DSC-1912.png




after about 28 hours i also finished this monster-peace...
DSC-1916.png


DSC-1917.png


i included this woodstairs in the print file too.
DSC-1918.jpg