Poly Cement is an interesting one, I wondered why it doesn’t smell / get you high like it did when my dad and I built a Airfix Lancaster in the 80’s. New safe less toxic formula init Guv. Meh.
Stoof's Project Thread
- Thread starter Stoof
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Tastes a bit nicer than it used to though. Tamiya Extra Thin is my favourite.
I have heard of people soldering models together and often wondered how they managed it without turning their lead figure into an impromptu T1000 model.
Did you use actual solder on the joint, flux and the like - do you have a variable temperature iron??
Or did you just waft a regular fixed temp one around the joints and stick them together??
Exhibit A
We’ve all now got nostril cancer.
Stop using it as a mixer!! It might vaguely smell like pear drops…
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I used standard tin-lead solder, no flux (not needed for soldering lead as both the solder and the material being soldered will melt), and a variable temperature iron (set to 370° if anyone ever needs to know!)
I tried three of four different things but this method worked in the end:
I got a blob of solder onto the iron tip and put this on to the broken off sword blade (allowing this to solidify) then held the blade with tweezers in the correct position. I applied the tip of the iron in short increments to the blob until it was juuuust at melting point and sort of smoothed the blob over the join. As it was right at melting it would solidify almost immediately when the iron was removed.
The result was a quite fat joined area, which I then filed smooth to blend it in with the rest of the sword and hilt. There's still some blob on the back of the blade but you can't really see it and it adds strength.
I reckon this would work with most weapon blades, spear shafts etc, but would be difficult with wrists or necks.
I should say I used to do quite a lot of soldering at work and with doing the electrics for remote control boats so I'm used to fairly precise soldering already, your mileage may vary depending on experience.
And here they are - one very odd Beastmaster group for Necromunda.
I'm not sure which the Necromundan Underhiver would find most alarming - the anciently armed, glowing, ghostly skeletons or the weird green ground tentacles they appear to walk on.
I'm not sure which the Necromundan Underhiver would find most alarming - the anciently armed, glowing, ghostly skeletons or the weird green ground tentacles they appear to walk on.
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Perhaps they were innocently pillaging an agro dome when they stumbled across them?
The length of the arms on the right side skele-ghost!! That chap can scratch his ankles standing upright!!
If he gets used the modern game his arms grant him the versatile trait!
If he gets used the modern game his arms grant him the versatile trait!
I finished the little skeleton this evening as an actual skeleton rather than a ghostly one.
I recently got an inkling to make one of the old metal dreds, and not pay a small fortune for the pleasure.
There was a time, many years ago, when people would literally give away models when they'd given up the hobby. Consequently I got two metal 2nd ed dreds for nothing at all in the late 90s/early 00's, and they were turned into this:
It was used as a custom heavy sentinel in a game or two, used as a terrain piece for a while, and has since sat in a box for about 20 years. The time has come for it to be reincarnated.
After cracking it open, I have nearly all the parts for two different dreadnoughts - a lascannon & missile launcher fancy one which I think is Dark Angels specific, and a generic assault cannon/power fist dred.
The parts missing are one power pack with exhausts (proxyable from a sentinel power pack) and a smoke launcher, available from every tank kit ever.
I want to do the standard one first, so it's gained priority of the engine and grenade launcher and gone for an acetone bath to dissolve 25 year old superglue...
There was a time, many years ago, when people would literally give away models when they'd given up the hobby. Consequently I got two metal 2nd ed dreds for nothing at all in the late 90s/early 00's, and they were turned into this:
It was used as a custom heavy sentinel in a game or two, used as a terrain piece for a while, and has since sat in a box for about 20 years. The time has come for it to be reincarnated.
After cracking it open, I have nearly all the parts for two different dreadnoughts - a lascannon & missile launcher fancy one which I think is Dark Angels specific, and a generic assault cannon/power fist dred.
The parts missing are one power pack with exhausts (proxyable from a sentinel power pack) and a smoke launcher, available from every tank kit ever.
I want to do the standard one first, so it's gained priority of the engine and grenade launcher and gone for an acetone bath to dissolve 25 year old superglue...
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I got good use out of it, but it was time for a change.
I've been weathering up Horg's-own-Boltgun from TribeMeet, suggestions of other wear techniques welcome.
(The shading around the eagle is actually dark but it's caught the light in the photo)
I've been weathering up Horg's-own-Boltgun from TribeMeet, suggestions of other wear techniques welcome.
(The shading around the eagle is actually dark but it's caught the light in the photo)
What type of screw used on a Boltgun? Flat head? Allen? Why, Mechanicus headed of course! It's like Torx, but more complicated. Perfect.
I imagine it’s going to be much the same as a miniature, just larger!! Probably a black weathering powder on the barrel vents to give a powdery finish.
Really though, you probably know much of the techniques as anyone else here.
Still, I’ll post up this video from Movie Prop Master Adam Savage, as you’re essentially doing the same thing.
Though whether Horg wants you to whip his weapon with a bike chain is his own business.
CaptainDangerous
Mr Captain "+1 third place" Dangerous
Staff member
Yak Comp 3rd Place
Tribe Council
Some more weathering and those Mech-headed screws.
