I found a method, I won't say THE method, but it worked mostly. There is still too much warping of the paper sides on these sponsons for my tastes, but I believe less than would have happened if I went with the way the oringinal plans were laid out. Instead of a single layer of card, I laminated the sponses with two layers and cut the tops and bottoms off instead of folding them down. This seemed to work better than tabs and folds for the most part. I still however got hte warping I was trying to avoid. Lesson learned for next time.
Test fit for assembly... One axle is a bit short....
I've got a slight problem with the right drive shaft axle being a hair short on the test fit. No worries... To me. This is a proxy, not an attempt to fully recreate the original. I'll fix by other means later... in the mean time, on to PAINT!
Just the first base layers. Bolter bodies are red traditionally... Why grey? Well, back in the day, the Necromunda 8th Spiders had the original Land Raiders (like ALL Imperial units) back in the late 80's (I want to say this was in the Compendium). Since this Yaktribe, and dedicated to Necromunda, that is a no brainer for what the color scheme for this one will be!
So, you know those areas I brushed black paint over on the road wheels and sponsons... Here is an up close where you have the black undercoat where the primer didn't cover so well. This turns out better than just plain white on those areas!
Got some painting done. Mainly using Delta Ceramcoat paints with Hippo Gray as my base color and mixing with black for shading, and Ivory for lighter higlights. Opaque Red for weapons, with Vajello gunmetal as my barrel metalics. On the exhaust, I have a base coat of burnt umber right now.
Treads prior to final paint and detail. Crest started out in black marker....
Just continued my painting over the last week with building up my layers. Base of Delta Ceramcoat (North American bottled crafting acrylics) Hippo Gray mixed with black for the shade and Ivory for the highlights. Typically, the shade tones were painted in low spots and seams on top of the base color. I then dry brushed a basic highlight version of the gray and followed up with progressively lighter highlights using my round brush for the rivet heads and upper panels and such.
The 8th Necromunda Regimental crest of the spider on a roundel of yellow and red started out as a black marker outline. I started it thinking it might look neat subdued... Nope. Too much difference between the marker and paint for my tastes. So I painted a base of Ivory and let it dry. Then I used the Opaque Yellow, followed by a ring of Opaque Red. Finally, black paint for the spider.
Looking back, I should have done these treads/tracks with the sub-assemblies... Lesson learned! I still managed to get them on fine, just more painful than it could have been. If you are just starting papercraft armor, FIND better ways! I cannot say my method was the best by any stretch of the imagination!
First mistake was NOT assembly after the test fit. I laminated the hinges on one side after base coating the treads with black acrylic. After that horrible experience, I built the other side completely then base coated it. Fortunately, acrylics are pretty flexible paints and bend with the parts pretty well.
Upper view of the tracks, brown oxide highlights over burnt umber
I put glue on the road, drive, and idler wheels as a I ran the tracks across. On the top, I didn't mind a bit of sag between the road wheels, as this is realistic and shows gravity pulling the links of the treads. Now, when the vehicle is moving, some of this sag goes away do to the force of movment on the links... Realism is secondary however, as I doubt anything other than the classic Landraider ever really puts all that weight on the hinges of the treads!
So, I accomplished my goal with demonstrating some papercraft methods I use to create a very servicable proxy vehicle for the 40K universe and similar 28mm to 32mm scale wargames. Templates exist, both free and paid, for many scales, and one can easily print these at any scale they desire to cover 15mm and smaller, or larger 54mm for your Inqistior or 1:35/32nd scale collections. Of course, one needs to be creative for the larger scales...
My other goal was getting this done in 2019! Down to the wire, but completed! My only goof (not already noted) was passing over an actual RT 40K template and picking a Proteus (which you can get from Forgeworld...). I intended to stick to 'out of production' subjects for this project, and failed to properly research fully! Well, the amount of time and effort goes to show that the proxy can sometimes be more involved and time consuming than the acutal kit! Plan accordingly, and most importantly, have fun. When the fun stops, you should stop, as this is a hobby!
Back in October I proposed a challenge to the Sunday Skirmish group I belong to (casual crowd, centered around a Facebook group and meeting Sundays at various local game shops). Starting from October 1 to the last Sunday in October, make a vehcile in the spirit of the classic Rick Priestly deodorant speeder build from the 1st edition 40K era. Design must include found objects like a deordorant container or similar items; beyond that, kitbash away with whatever bits you want. Being a papercraft guy, I melded the Patoroch Ork Fighta template with the deodorant container, an Ork buggy plastic kit, some old used up glue sticks, and finally some 3D printed parts I designed for the build to be turbine intakes.
Ork Fighta Speeda! Based on the classic Priestly 1980's deodorant speeder, a Patoroch Ork...
Result is a fun little Fighta Speeda ready to zip around the Skid and terrorize rival Mobs, Diggas, Grots, and Muties! We started play testing some mashed up rules using Gorkamorka as a base and the new Speed Freaks templates. Those details will follow in other threads, and I may not be authoring them! I'll get the gjuys to share those details when we nail them down.
I moved after closing on a house for Valentines Day this year (yup, got my wife a house, most expensive gift we ever give each other...):
Here is my first paper project in the new pad in my new work area!
It is a Tauros by Eli Patoroch. For those that follow Eli on Facebook, I was one of many who requested this model, so when it came out I downloaded and printed it. I also hit it with clear coat, then proceeded to pack it away until today when I pulled it out and started cutting bits out and gluing!
So, should you choose to build this fine model, here is a quick note about the assembly process pretty early on. When you are building the main body of the buggy, get parts #5 built and folded before you glue parts #2 & #4 together. This will get you the strength and angle you are going to need.
Above you see the parts glued together... Thankfully #2 and #4 were still drying when I applied #5 (below)
For this size of project, not long. This is only a couple hours of work thus far. Now, the Landraider I posted earlier was a beast that took a couple months (largely due to premium hobby time being spent doing other things... duty calls when you have a family).
Edit: Time might be valuable enough that purchasing the kit from GW or Forge World is 'cheapest' way to go. In fact, I'd encourage it for most cases... I try to limit most of my projects to items not made anymore (1st Edition RT era dreadnoughts, classic Rhinos); or that I'm going to tear up in the conversion process (Orky looted versions, wrecks, etc...).
With this vehicle being an open topped single seater with a gunner, I figured I couldn't leave the crew compartments unmanned like I could get away with heavier armor... Inspired by my Ork Fighta Speeda, I'm bringin in some Mad Robot bits to make the driver (now) and the gunner (later).
To accomodate the driver, I had to modify the seat (get it higher at any rate):
I also decided to add a few more greeblies, like this power line to the headlights: