Necromunda The ClockworkOrange Troll Lol Lol Lol Song

[Stoof]

How are the towers for sturdiness?

I have memories of touching one of Rad's magnetised figures and several parts launching themselves wildly across the room. Presumably these are beefy magnets for the inevitable hive quakes that happen during games.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

As sturdy as my other magnet towers in Trollholme i.e. once up you’ve no idea it’s not glued.

I’m using fairly strong magnets though that are hard to get apart with your fingers, as usual thats quite an extra cost. £9 for 50, 48 per tower.

 

[MusingWarboss]

I found these on Printables a while ago:

Hexagon w/Hole - 2.5D - Munda Terrain by Pandora＇s Hobbies | Download free STL model | Printables.com

I created some 2.5D versions of the old 2D cardboard tiles that came in sets long ago. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

So your platform idea should work. My fear would be the possible delamination of the PLA from repeated sliding of the bulkheads in the slots. Much like it messed up the card over time.

Have you considered adapting your wall mounted magnet holders so they could slot onto the OG bulkheads?

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Fun with Filament update

That’s three towers complete with all supports, magnets and ladders. Obviously I’ve used less of the original parts in tower three. I also did two shipping containers as test prints.

I used 2 reels of filament, all my old cities of death walls, and 150 magnets. Material costs are therefore roughly £25 for the filament, £30 for the magnets, the old walls are probably priceless and £5 for the CoD STL files! Not cheap when you add it all up! But I have got something unique to the Troll, at least for now!*

If you are a bit of a techy nerd along with your other hobbies, I’d defo recommend the Centuri Carbon it’s very easy to use. I only had one failed print with this extensive test, and that was my fault whilst learning how to load a new reel. For anyone on the fence I hope this ramble shows you how easy 3D printing is.

Towers!

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 15, 2025

*Would peeps be interested in the STLs? I’ll figure out how to share them if there’s enough interest.

 

[Tiny]

Norman castle next?

How long until the Troll is making his own filament from recycled pop bottles?

 

[Trafalgar Law]

As sturdy as my other magnet towers in Trollholme i.e. once up you’ve no idea it’s not glued.

I’m using fairly strong magnets though that are hard to get apart with your fingers, as usual thats quite an extra cost. £9 for 50, 48 per tower.

What size and strength magnets are you using?

Have you tried this company: Spider Magnetics https://www.web-magnets.co.uk/

I picked up 250 n52 grade 3x2mm magnets for £9.99 from them.

 

[MusingWarboss]

*Would peeps be interested in the STLs? I’ll figure out how to share them if there’s enough interest.

It would be cool to develop a YakSTL section in the vault here.
Especially if you’re not selling them or using any IP… because GW seem quick on taking those down on the main STL sites, or even as it transpires, targeting people making things that are similar to things they make…

 

[ClockworkOrange]

I reckon the original bulkhead builders used 3D modelling software of some kind, I wonder what it was, the simple shapes etc are very much like TinkerCad.

Had a “busy“ afternoon at work so finished detailing this up for printing.

Detail work

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 17, 2025

Perfectly Symmetrical, might not look it because of the angle.

Hand carved original

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 17, 2025

Perfectly Symmetrical, look it’s made of a foamex 3mm sandwich stuck onto plasticard you try cutting that many shapes to make 9 floors and see what you do…..shakes fist at the unfairness of the world.

 

[Trafalgar Law]

Little trick I learnt building Trollholme. Whatever glue and hole tolerance you use, magnets can and will annoyingly pull out of sockets.

To stop this I glue them in with superglue and then cover them with these and coat with PVA. Looks neat and also creates a really solid cover.

Magnet covers

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 11, 2025

I may have to try this. I'm having a few problems with certain magnets pulling out.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

@Trafalgar Law didnt seem to work for this build, I’ve changed to masking tape over the joints, then painted with PVA. I think Imust have had 15mm dots last time not 10mm.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Slow and gradual Tinkering on the reel towers. I want to make it look like a large tank surrounded by platforms, I reckon if I paint the tank and central cylinder red and add a few number transfers it should work really well.

Im also trying not to use magnets to save cash. The reels each have 3 holes so I’m trying to create “teeth“ that each subsequent section locks/stacks on. It all depends on the tolerance the cardboard reels are made too, guessing it’ll take a few iterations before it all fits.

The top bit obviously isn’t but all subsequent floors should only be about 40 grams of filament so it will be a good way of using up left overs.

Floors - mk1 wo hatch

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 19, 2025

Teeth

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 19, 2025

Top

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 19, 2025

 

[MusingWarboss]

I like it! Really pushes the limits of your build plate though!!

I’m hoping to get a few bits printed for my storage tanks and furnaces once I’ve got my printer set up (still need to clear space for it to sit).

The top bit obviously isn’t but all subsequent floors should only be about 40 grams of filament so it will be a good way of using up left overs.

While I think it’s possible to do it by hand with some heating element, you can buy filament splicers which will allow you to joint up the stragglers and create a longer bit for more printing fun.

SUNLU Filament Connector, Fusion Splicer | SUNLU Online Store

SUNLU Brand new filament connector, fusion splicer, heats up to 240℃, weldable to PLA, ABS, PETG, PCL, PA, and PC, no more waste filament!

sunlu.co.uk

 

[Arnulf]

Man, what a neat project. Very inspiring.

If making the teeth are giving you trouble you can treat the rounded edges as circles and measure the diameter. Buy a cheap length of dowel, cut a piece for each end and glue wood or a piece of sprue as a spacer in between the dowel pieces.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

@MusingWarboss thats the Tinkercad measuring plane at 200x200 the build plate is 256x256 so plenty of room.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Still need to remember that all detials need to be over 1mm to be sharp via Filament but this has come out rather well. Nothing some sanding and heavy weathering won’t fix.

The feet lock well, so much so I can pick the tower up and it doesn’t fall apart.

I think I need to print kind of support bracket or beam for the floors, just so they aren’t floating, although I want to avoid anything on the edges for storage purposes.

The idea is that this is a central tower that walkways all link to from different buildings.

Reel Tower

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 20, 2025

Reel Tower

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 20, 2025

The feet work.

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 20, 2025

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Slight tangent time but I fancied painting something new so it’s Pillage time!

Mainly stock Victrix Normans with just a mild conversion to my Chief/Baron. Mounted on Warlord Games bases and levelled with wall filler to cover the annoying moulded on bases. I’m going to paint the shields separately so they aren’t attached yet.

Nice models to be fair just the right amount of detail and variation for rank and file troops. I went for some cavalry just because I think the last time I painted a horse would have been in the mid 90’s, Imperial Guard Rough Riders!

Normans!

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 24, 2025

Some of the first models I ever painted were two 15mm Vikings so this is a nice full circle. Peachy spray painted his silver to speed up the painting process so I might have a bash at copying him for the paint scheme. Won’t be a particularly historically accurate paint job because neither he or I have got any idea what colours Normans wore!

Might have a bash at a display base for them all, can’t imagine I’ll need any more, this already exceeds our proposed 600 gold piece list.

Also couldn’t resist using some historically accurate Norman Crusader shield designs…..which whilst all true will make them look a bit more “English” to the untrained eye

Do you have a flag?

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 24, 2025

 

[MusingWarboss]

neither he or I have got any idea what colours Normans wore!

Well there's this thing called the Bayeux tapestry...

Think mostly earthy colours, ochres, a few reds and muted greens and blues etc. Nothing too vibrant - all else fails look up reenactment clothing!

EDIT: a few natural dye samples here:

What Colour were Medieval Clothes? - The Company of the Staple

Whether you’re having your medieval clothes made, or buying fabric to make them yourself, the first question new re-enactors ask is “What colour should my clothes be?” The correct, but unhelpful, answer is “It depends”. It depends on the precise period of history, the place, the socio-economic...

companyofthestaple.org.au

Slightly later period but if you look at the “palette of plant dyed wool” section you’ll get a good idea for the Dark Ages period too.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Thanks @MusingWarboss I’ll use this for my palate.

Colour scheme

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 25, 2025

 

[Trafalgar Law]

What a useful resource.

 

[ClockworkOrange]

Whilst I’m quite impressed with these Victrix kits, there’s no obvious leader supplied, so I’ve done some very minimal conversions to one of the command sprue Normans. I’ve chopped off the original head, mounted a new one in the supplied hood and then added a cloak from my bits box to make him stand out more. All filled with sprue glue. Ive also only used non Norman helmeted heads on him and the warhornist(?) so they stand out.

Baron L’Orange

• ClockworkOrange
• Oct 25, 2025

Ive since covered the hole in his arse with a pack.