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Yeah, I have Lahmian Medium, but never use it - just thin with water and add a few drops of washing up liquid - I think someone previously mentioned about using it to break surface tension.
For larger areas - I have heard about using floor polish - never tried it though
 
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I've got some experience with making washes using Pledge, which has inconveniently changed name and appearance in Sweden. Again.
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Either way, I've made two bottles of the "magic" washes, in two small medicine bottles I've kept around.
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I had two bottles of ink, blue and black, laying around when I tried this, so those are the only colours I've done so far. These are 1 ml Pledge and 4 ml regular tap water with some 10-15 drops of calligraphy ink. Unfortunately, I haven't got any before/after pictures of me using this, but I can tell you that it really sort of crawls into crevices and cracks. It's very low surface tension, so it works wonders as a wash. It's much thinner than Citadel equivalent, so if you're planning on using it to darken metal (like with Nuln Oil) it'll require a LOT of layers, since it hates settling on large, open surfaces.

A useful note is also that they dry slightly shiny. Not the oily-wet shiny of Tamiya Smoke, but not the dull shine of Agrax either.

But I recommend you try it for yourself. The Pledge is dirt cheap and will literally last you a lifetime and you can usually get ink for reasonable prices. In a pinch, you could probably cannibalize a ballpoint pen.
 
I tried one with a dab of Rhinox Hide and used it some Mechanicus terrain. I can't speak for what happens when you use black, but I had two main issues. First, when applied or tended to be very, very faint in colour, so I added some more paint. That had the effect of making the wash dry in "cakes" of sort. Not an issue on rusty old vents, but possibly unwanted on a normal miniature. My tip is to do some testing first on a throwaway mini with a very small amount of wash. It's entirely possible that black works better or that I simply mixed it poorly, so try it out.
 
Thanks It's for scenery so any failures not the end of the world it just makes it look more underhivy
 
Spot of woodwork with old ikea bed slats and an old oak wardrobe up-cycling and I present to you the ye olde clockwork scenery cupboard (tm pending).

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Think I'll be putting copies of the rules reference sheets on the back of the doors - anybody produced better ones than those that come in the box?
 
Any way to third it then hang the pieces on the inside of the cupboard doors? No idea the weight of that thing which might be a problem though.
 
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Nice work on the cupboard. Looks like you managed to get a lot of terrain in there. Can I suggest putting some thin ply/hardboard on the shelves for the scenery to sit on. That way you can slide the whole sheet out to either get to items right at the back, or set an entire shelves worth of terrain down on the table in one go.
 
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That's a great looking scenery cupboard you've got there @ClockworkOrange , and @Azzabats suggestion of sheets on the shelves is a good one. I would consider making them to half a shelf width so it's a little easier to slide out. I would hate for you to drop a shelf worthy of scenery [emoji22]

You could cut the board in thirds and hinge it, one panel would fold over on to the playing surface and one panel away and under near the playing surface. I think it may be to heavy and bulky to mount inside the door, a possibility would be a shelf at the side to sit it on with a strap three quarters of the way up it to secure it.

Like these quick sketches

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Anyway enough waffling from me, keep up the good work [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Thanks all but I think I'm just going to hang the board off brackets on the garage wall, the previous owner of the house left some bike hook things that should do the job. It's 6x4 and dwarfs the cupboard.

The problem with the tray idea is there's that much terrain crammed into the cupboard that'll fall of the edges. Reckon there's only enough room for two more big projects on the middle and bottom shelf :-(
 
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Just a thought. I had a similar (but built in) wardrobe in my last house and it seemed no matter how I stacked it, I always wanted the stuff right at the back. A sheet of Hardboard on the shelf meant I could slide it 1/3 of the way out, and be able to reach everything. I did have lots and lots of small terrain.

Good thinking with the bike hooks. Reminds me of a motto my Dad told me that I always try to remember ... K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. :)
 
Ye olde thread is alive again! Been playing (and spending) a lot of Armada recently even pre ordered the wave 2 ships + fallout 4 when this mid 30's dad of two very young ladies gets spare time.

If you're nice or if someone picks a comp I can build terrain for! I might make something or at least post up the long promised completed pictures of my board :cautious:
 
@ClockworkOrange - I've been thinking about doing exactly what you've done for some time now. The terrain tiles that is. At first I thought about taking sheets of plywood and cutting them in 30x30, 15x15 and 15x30 segments (centimeters), but cork tiles would make it much easier. What thickness are yours? I'm looking at 4mm thick ones atm, but I'm worried those might be a bit to flexible. Thoughts?