TUTORIAL: Painting/Modelling

JimboDeany

Gang Hero
Oct 7, 2014
1,016
844
133
Richmond, London
I've just done a little bit of graffiti on my doors/barricades but not really any great technique other than draw it out first, paint the outlines in black, fill with white and then go for colours.

Trying to upload an image but I'm apparently over my limit...
 

Blood Donor

Executive Officer in Charge of the 2014 Bake Sale
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Necromunda Custodian
Aug 23, 2011
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Golden, British Columbia, Canada
Woah. Is that the new Mad Donna equivalent release? Can someone point me to the discussion on here talking about it? I assume people have already been discussing and that I have just managed to miss it :D
 
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nathanie1

Gang Champion
Jan 11, 2012
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Penge, se207jn
Hmmmmm

My advice is to build them sectionally laying down each element in the order they are raised on the model. So, first the ribbon trails, then the bow loops and finally the knot.

I would roll the putty flat and make a few thicknesses. Leave it to go slightly hard as green stuff remains very flexible after it has started to set, then cut it in to strips with a scalpel and ruler. Use slightly thicker strips for the trails and then then take a thinner strip and leave it to harden further before bending it completely over to make the loops. Finally either take two thin squares of GS and lay them on top of each other at an angle to simulate the knot or just a small blob of fresh GS if you want to cheat. The knot essentially hides where you have glued the other elements together.

This would be how I would do it. I’m sure there are plenty of methods and I am by no means an expert.
 

Lahsbee

Juve
Dec 9, 2017
31
23
8
United States
Hmmmmm

My advice is to build them sectionally laying down each element in the order they are raised on the model. So, first the ribbon trails, then the bow loops and finally the knot.

I would roll the putty flat and make a few thicknesses. Leave it to go slightly hard as green stuff remains very flexible after it has started to set, then cut it in to strips with a scalpel and ruler. Use slightly thicker strips for the trails and then then take a thinner strip and leave it to harden further before bending it completely over to make the loops. Finally either take two thin squares of GS and lay them on top of each other at an angle to simulate the knot or just a small blob of fresh GS if you want to cheat. The knot essentially hides where you have glued the other elements together.

This would be how I would do it. I’m sure there are plenty of methods and I am by no means an expert.

That's very helpful, thank you!
 

Blood Donor

Executive Officer in Charge of the 2014 Bake Sale
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Necromunda Custodian
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I moved the (what had been above pre second move) resin casting tutorial that @Kommissar Shriken has made into the Tutorials sticky, but am wondering if we should try and give them their own forum section so that they are easily locatable? Maybe by a show of likes. The boss is pretty sick right now, but maybe I will pester him about the idea in the near future.
 
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Blood Donor

Executive Officer in Charge of the 2014 Bake Sale
Staff member
Necromunda Custodian
Aug 23, 2011
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...not sure if someone will find it here on Page 7.
Yeah, know what you mean. If not a dedicated Tutorials section, I might break the stickied Tutorials thread into a couple separate ones - casting and molding, green stuff, terrain building, painting miniatures, painting terrain - and that way people will find exactly the sort of pointers they seek :)

If anyone has further tutorial category ideas or input would be great to hear (y)
 
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Merzbau

Ganger
Nov 9, 2018
248
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Philadelphia
Does anyone have tips on how to securely attach Orlock arms to other torsos with flat attachment points, like Guard, Genestealer Cults, most other GW product lines...? I'm working on a batch of conversions and while Orlock stub guns are readily available and blend in easily enough with other models' clothes/uniforms, the shape of the arm joint is a huge pain and I'd really like to avoid pinning and green stuff. The obvious answer is just filing them flat, but I'm concerned that this would take too much off of the arm and leave the shoulder looking strange.
 

SirFrog

Gang Hero
Mar 1, 2015
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Luleå, Sweden
You're kind of out of luck. You could carve out a hollow from the flat, or flatten the shoulder joint, but both solutions may need greenstuff to smoothen the joint. Pinning is not usually required for plastic-on-plastic seams, particularly if you use plastic glue.

You may want to look at things like Tamiya Basic Putty, which is a quick-drying, sandable putty useful for gap filling. It's almost impossible to shape or scuplt, though, but it flattens real nice and is good for hiding long seams on things like coats and so on.
 

chitching

Gang Hero
Yak Comp 1st Place
Sep 12, 2012
1,129
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Alnwick, Northumberland
I liked this tutorial, helps sort out lots of the talk of spending hundreds on MDF stuff when you can get cheap supplies and recycleables.

Wyloch does some great stuff. I really like the Necron terrain he did. He does really good low cost stuff - I started watching him for ideas for D&D stuff.

Last week I did a new painting tutorial for painting skeletons / bones. With Necro's love of putting metal onto bone, I thought it might be handy for some people if they're new to painting and weren't quite sure of how to do decent looking skeletons - also handy for getting those Gang Totem pieces painted!