Necromunda Warped / Bent Necromunda Tiles

Courynn

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Apr 6, 2021
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Hi there - ordered 4 full set of the Zone Mortalis Tiles. Sadly every single one of them are slightly warped / bent and they do not lay flat on the table - thus terrain on it just looks awful angled. I tried hot water and a 20kg weight but with no success. I can see that the plastic lays flat but after it cools down and I lift the weight it still maintain its warped stage.
Any advice on how to get them flat? I already contacted customer support but they are not warped enough to be a production error... - so no replacement
 
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Personally, before I tried a fix, I'd have at it with GW again, they're supposed to be a level surface, if they've come like they are, that's GW's fault, irrespective of how warped they aren't. They've provided you with a substandard product and I'm fairly certain that under UK law you have a right to a replacement under consumer rights and trading standards laws. Be firm with them and mention those rights and laws and see how quickly they resolve your issue, do not let their customer services mob fob you off...

...if you do fail and get fobbed off and they genuinely want to be bumholes about it and not give you a replacement...

...try, very very carefully, using a heat gun. Put the heat gun on the lowest setting. You might get away with a hairdryer although it might not be hot enough. A heat gun like you'd use to strip wall paper. You will have to be very very very careful though as there is a risk of ending up with goop. Do not get up close, I'd say 6 inches to a foot would do, and don't concentrate the heat in one area. I haven't done it myself on something like you have, but I have bent thick clear plastic rods for shoving up tail pipes on scale model aircraft, once they start to bend, and it doesn't take much heat to make them, they go quickly and you have a short working time.

You might be able to get away with running a lighter up and down under a spot where you can see or think the warpage starts. I've bent thin styrene with a lighter, as I'm sure we all have...

Or, you could put it in the oven with weights all over it, at a very low temp, as low as you can go - people do that to bend plastic rods to go up scale model aircraft tail pipes. But again, you have to be very very careful as it's very easy to end up with goop.

You could also try gluing them to a surface, like an MDF board, and forcibly level them that way, use weights or clamps to hold them down whilst glue dries, 5 minute epoxy type glues specifically for bonding to plastics could work. CA glue might work for a time.
 
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faulty forge world stuff , whood a thunk it! , at least its not very expensive:rolleyes:
 
Unfortunately, I don't have a direct solution, but if you want to build individual ZM tiles, you could put them possibly on a base to stop the warping.

For example, on XPS rigid foam panels made of extruded polystyrene, such as those found as insulating panels in hardware stores. The panels I mean have closed pores and are available in different thicknesses from 2 cm thickness upwards and can easily be cut with a hot wire cutter. They are also often used in tabletop, for example to build mountains.

And in the USA another option might be Wooden Canvas Panels in 12x12 inches like those used in painting.
 
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Really the fact that these are reported as warped frequently shows it’s an inherent design flaw. The tiles aren’t thick enough or include enough bracing underneath. When you look how slim these are compared to Realm of Battle Boards it’s no surprise they warp a bit.

As for flattening, yeah, as others have said it’s going to have to be to warm it up so it can be manipulated. I’d not dry direct heat though as I suspect it’d melt quickly and give off nasty fumes.

My only advice would be similar to what you’ve done just with boiling water.
 
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this was the case with 2 out of 4 in every box of these i bought last year (after they were out of stock for over a year on the gw webstore, lmao). strengthening the underside of the panels with styrene usually does the trick- glue from support to support on the bottoms with styrene cement, and then slap a heavy book on the top while they dry.