Competition Yakcomp 40: "Anything Goes”

YAKCOMP 40 VOTING (pick upto 3)

  • @Ben_S ’The hunt for Blood Donor’

    Votes: 1 3.6%
  • @Sump Duck 'The Phlebotomist'

    Votes: 4 14.3%
  • @Stoof ’Yakmarines throuout the ages’

    Votes: 11 39.3%
  • @Punktaku ‘I usually don’t “grime” things’

    Votes: 3 10.7%
  • @Pagumb ’The memorial’

    Votes: 3 10.7%
  • @DarkNwss ‘nightmare fuel

    Votes: 4 14.3%
  • @MedMos ‘I am Caer-Lorath’

    Votes: 8 28.6%
  • @ClockworkOrange ’Blood Donor Blimp’

    Votes: 4 14.3%
  • @Pierric ‘A SALUTE TO THE FALLEN’

    Votes: 1 3.6%
  • @Lyndon ’I finished a thing!’

    Votes: 2 7.1%
  • @Spamuel ’The Shrine of The Peacemaker.’

    Votes: 2 7.1%
  • @trollmeat “Pickles Reborn - Free Hugs”.

    Votes: 3 10.7%
  • @SuboptimusPrime ‘delete this post from your cogitator banks’

    Votes: 16 57.1%
  • @Resmire ’secret Dr Leper Ingredient sourcing clinic’

    Votes: 10 35.7%

  • Total voters
    28
  • Poll closed .
I got this lot in my mailbox :

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Let's strip them and see how to turn them into Marines renegades as per the Rogue Trader illustration :

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The Marines have been stripped from their paint.

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Of course, all plastic bits were lost in the chemical process (and some others still wonder why some of us still stick to barbarious relics like precious metals...).

Now let's tour our bits box, and have some brainstorming session...

[TBC]
 
Of course, all plastic bits were lost in the chemical process (and some others still wonder why some of us still stick to barbarious relics like precious metals)

Biostrip20 or French equivalent is your friend. Strips models fantastically and preserves the plastic. Bit late now, but maybe useful information for someone.
 
I use mineral oil based brake fluid. Castrol brand, as of late. Turns GW acrylics into a weird rubbery film that can usually be pulled off in one go. Important to take the stuff without any additives. Leaves plastic mostly alone, forgot an old marine in a pot of it for a few days, only caused light misting.

Only real downside is that you have to really thoroughly scrub it off the models afterwards because even miniscule residue in nooks and crannies will absolutely ruin fresh paint. That and you really need to wear gloves using it. It does not give off any weird fumes and isn't especially toxic, but it does not play nice with the oils and fat on and in human skin.
 
I've found it struggles with some primers on a few things I've bought on eBay. For example on the night goblins, half of them came out like brand new, the other half lost some of the acrylic paint but the black primer stayed behind and seemed to hold onto some of the acrylics. Which is why they stayed in for a year, to see if the others would eventually come clean. They're still easily re-painted though.
 
I've found it struggles with some primers on a few things I've bought on eBay. For example on the night goblins, half of them came out like brand new, the other half lost some of the acrylic paint but the black primer stayed behind and seemed to hold onto some of the acrylics. Which is why they stayed in for a year, to see if the others would eventually come clean. They're still easily re-painted though.
I've found iso struggles with anything with a gloss prime finish personally, but like you say normally you can just prime over a prime if it isn't caked on.
 
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To be honest, I didn't care about these marines plastic bits. My intent was to convert the miniatures to make them more suited to an underhive setting, and less "army regular" looking.

But thank you all for your tips regarding appropriate paint stripper for plastic parts. That will be very useful a day or another. (y)
 
To be honest, I didn't care about these marines plastic bits. My intent was to convert the miniatures to make them more suited to an underhive setting, and less "army regular" looking.

But thank you all for your tips regarding appropriate paint stripper for plastic parts. That will be very useful a day or another. (y)
Topic has been hijacked 🤣
 
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